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Full text of "The mountain that was "God"; being a little book about the great peak which the Indians called "Tacoma", but which is officially named "Rainier""

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THE  NEW  YORK  PUBLIC  LIBRARY 
REFERENCE  DEPARTMENT 


This  book    is    under    no    circumstances    to    be 
taken  from  the  Building 


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St.  Elmo  Pass,  between  W  inthrop  Glacier  and  Interglacier.     View  from  North  side. 


'THE  MOUNTALN  THAT  WAS    GOD'" 

Illustrated  with  maps  and  140  views  of  .Mt.  Rainier  (Tacoma). 
including  eight  three-color  half-tones. 


In  stout   boards,  with  colored   half-tone  view    of   the   Mountain    and 

North  Mowich  Glacier  in  a  storm,  on  front  cover        -  -         $1.00  net 

By  mail,  12  cents  extra 

In  hea\*y  paper  co\  ers,  with  poster  design  of  the   .Mountain   in  colors 

and  gilt,  embossed         ..--.....         $().50  net 
By  mail,  7  cents  extra 


Published  by 
JOHN  H.  WILLl.AMS,        -   -        T.ACO.M A,  WASHINGTON. 


Sunrise  above  the  clouds,  seen  from  Camp  Curtis,  on  the  \\  edge.  «ilh  \\  hite  Glacier  below. 


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HE  MOUNTAIN  THAT  WAS 

''(jOD"     ^       I5H1N(^     A     LI  I  !IJ{     liOOK 

Ai^oir    riii:  (iKi:\r  im:\k   which    im: 

INDIANS  CALLliD  "TACOM A"  lU    I  W  MICH 
IS  OFFICIALLY  NAMED  "KAINIi:R"     >     .< 


BY 


JOHN  H.  WILLIAMS 


O,  rarest  miracle  of  mountain  heights, 

Thou  hast  the  sky  for  thy  imperial  dome, 

And  dwell'st  amon}i  the  stars  all  days  and  nijfhts. 

In  the  far  heavens  famiiiarls   at  home. 

—  William  llillis  N\\nn:  "Mt.    Tacoma;  an  Apotheosis. 


TACOMA 

Published  by  the  .Author 
1910 


573527 


Narada  Falls,  175  teet,  with  Eagle  Peak.     It  has  been  proposed  to  change  the  name 

to    Cushnian    Falls,    in    recognition    of   the    late    F.  W.  Cushman's  work  in 

Congress  for  the  Government  Road,  which  passes  near  the  falls. 


Copyright,  1910  by  John  H.  Williams 


i^i 


On  [lie  suminll  of  l^aiilc  Rock  in  wiiilcr.      l{o\  s  limkiiii;  over  un  HlKI-frmt  piccipice. 

FOHKWOKI) 

Kvory  summer  there  is  demand  for  illustrated  literature  describing  the  mount ain 
variously  called  "Rainier"  or  "Tacoma."  Hitherto,  we  have  had  only  small  collections 
of  pictures,  wiilmut  text,  and  confined  to  the  familiar  south  and  southwest  sides. 

The  little  book  which  I  now  offer  aims  to  show  the  grandest  and  most  accessible 
of  our  extinct  volcanoes  from  all  points  of  view.  Like  the  glacial  rivers,  its  text  will 
be  found  a  narrow  stream  flowing  swiftly  amidst  great  mountain  scenery.  Its  abundant 
illustrations  cover  not  only  the  giants'  fairyland  south  of  the  peak,  but  also  the  equally 
stupendous  scones  that  await  the  adventurer  who  penetrates  the  harder  trails  and  climbs 
the  greater  glaciers  of  the  north  and  east  slopes.  No  book  will  ever  be  large  enough 
to  tell  the  whole  story.  That  must  be  learned  by  summers  of  severe  though  profitable 
toil. 

The  heroic  features  which  the  ice-streams  have  carved  upon  the  face  of  Mount 
"Big  Snow."  with  their  fascinating  "parks"  and  fiower-fields.  their  silvery  cascades  and 
gray  glacial  torrents,  are  every  year  becoming  more  friendly  to  visitors.  Each  summer 
sees  more  and  better  trails.  The  capital  highway  built  by  Pierce  County  through  the 
Nisqually  valley  to  the  Forest  Reserve  and  the  road  made  by  the  government  engineers 
up  to  the  Nisqually  glacier  and  the  Paradise  country  have  already  opened  a  wonderland 
to  the  autoni()l)ilist.  Roth  these  roads,  however,  should  be  widened:  and  the  government 
road  should,  by  all  means,  be  continued  around  the  Mountain,  crossing  the  canyons 
below  each  glacier,  and  winding  up  to  the  glorious  table-lands  above.  It  will  be  a  great 
day  for  the  lover  of  the  mountains  when  Congress,  awakening  to  the  value  of  the  whole 
Park,  shall  make  it  easy  to  know  all  the  charm  and  insi)iration  of  this  priceless  national 
playground. 

The  title  adopted  for  the  book  has  reference,  of  course,  to  the  Indian  nature 
worship,  of  which  something  is  said  in  the  opening  chapter.  Both  the  title  and  a  small 
part  of  the  matter  are  reprinted  from  an  article  which  I  contributed  last  year  to  the 
New  York  Evening  Post.  Attention  is  called  to  the  tangle  in  the  names  of  glaciers  and 
the  need  of  a  definitive  nomenclature.  As  to  the  name  of  the  Mountain  itself,  that 
famous  bone  of  contention  between  two  cities,  I  greatly  prefer  "Tacoma,"  one  of  the 
several  authentic  forms  of  the  Indian  name  used  by  different  tribes;  but  I  believe  that 
"Tahoma."  proposed  by  the  Rotary  Club  of  Seattle,  would  be  a  justifiable  compromise, 
and  satisfy  nearly  everybody.  Its  adoi)tion  would  free  our  national  map  from  one  more 
of  its  meaningless  names  —  the  name,  in  this  case,  of  an  undistinguished  foreign  naval 
officer  whose  only  connection  with  our  history  is  the  fact  that  he  fought  against  us 


8 


THE  MOUNTAIN  THAT   WAS  "GOD" 


during  the  American  Revolution.  Incidentally,  it  would  also  free  me  from  the  need 
of  an  apology  for  using  the  hybrid  "Rainier- Tacoma"! 

The  purpose  of  the  book,  however,  is  descriptive  rather  than  controversial.  Its 
plan  leaves  most  of  the  storV  to  the  illustrations,  with  their  explanatory  "underlines." 
I  have  cut  down  the  text  in  order  to  make  room  for  the  largest  possible  number  of  pic- 
tures. In  selecting  these,  several  thousand  negatives  and  photographs  have  been  exam- 
ined. The  ones  used  here  include  many  noteworthy  views  never  before  shown  in  any  pub- 
lication—  pictures  that  tell  a  great  story.  Conditions  met  by  every  photographer  of 
ice  scenes  make  it  difficult,  sometimes,  to  obtain  perfect  copy  for  the  engraver.  The 
collection  as  a  whole,  however,  is  as  representative  as  can  be  made  till  some  of  the 
glaciers  shall  have  been  more  fully  explored.  Owing  to  the  disproportion  of  cuts  to 
text,  it  has  not  always  been  possible  to  follow  a  logical  order  in  placing  the  illustrations: 
but  the  full  descriptions  given,  together  with  the  map,  will  aid  the  reader  to  form  a 
clear  idea  of  the  geography  of  the  National  Park  and  the  characteristic  aspects  of  the 
peak.  I  shall  be  grateful  for  correction  of  any  errors,  and  for  information  as  to  photo- 
graphs that  may  add  to  the  value  of  future  editions. 

Many  of  the  illustrations  show  wide  reaches  of  wonderful  country,  and  their  details 
may  well  be  studied  with  a  reading  glass. 

I  am  much  indebted  to  the  librarians  and  their  courteous  assistants  at  the  Seattle 
and  Tacoma  public  libraries;  also  to  Prof.  Flett  for  his  interesting  account  of  the  flora 
of  the  National  Park;  to  Mr.  Eugene  Ricksecker,  of  the  United  States  Engineer  Corps, 
for  permission  to  reproduce  his  new  map  of  the  Park,  now  printed  for  the  first  time; 
and,  most  of  all,  to  the  photographers,  both  professional  and  amateur.  In  the  table  of 
illustrations,  pages  11  to  13,  credit  is  given  the  maker  of  each  photograph. 

The  book  is  sent  out  in  the  hope  of  promoting  a  wider  knowledge  of  our  country's 
noblest  landmark.  May  it  lead  many  of  its  readers  to  delightful  days  of  recreation  and 
adventure! 

Tacoma.  .lune  1,  1910.  J.  H.  W. 


The  Mountain  from  Puyallnp  River,  near  Tacoma. 


\\  Iliu-  (;iacl(.-i  aiul   link-   I  .ilmiiKi.  \mI  h  ImisIi  iJi  tiul  ol  i  lie    I'lilfidsh  in  Jrslanci-. 


("ONTFA'I'S 


I.  .Mi>\iin   "Bis  Snow"  iiiul  Indian  'riadiiiDii . 

II.  Tlie  National    i'ark  and   How  to  Hfacli    it    

111.  The  Story  of  tin-  .Mi.uiuain   

I\'.  Tlic  i'^lora  (if  the  .Mountain  Slopes.  1)\    I'roT.  ,).  15.  Flett 

\',  Tlir  Clinihcrs   


Page 
15 

37 

68 

90 

1(12 


Liiii>  1  igiii,    ilu'j,    uy    A.    ±1.     wail' 
Basaltic  Columns,  part  of  "the  Colonnade"  on  south  side  of  South  Mowich  Glacier.     These  curious  six-sided  columns 
of  volcanic  rock,  about  KSfl  feel  high,  are  similar  to  those  bordering  the  Cowlitz  Glacier. 


Crevasses  in  Stevens  Glacier,  with  Cowlitz  Glacier  and  the  Cowlitz  Park  country  beyond. 


View  from  above  Sluiskin  Falls,  at  ^  p.  in. 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


Titles  marked  *  indicate  engravings  made  from  coi).vrighted  photograplis.     See  notice 
under  the  illustration. 


THREE-COLOR    H.ALP- TONES 
Title.  Photographer.     Page. 

Spanaway  Lake,  with  Reflection  of  the  Mountain A.  H.  Barnes.     Frontispiece 

View  from  Electron,  Showing  West  Side  of  the  Mountain   Asahel  Curtis.  19 

View  Northward  from  Top  of  Pinnacle  Peak Dr.  F.  A.  Scott.  46 

Looking  Northeast  from  Slope  of  Pinnacle  Peak  Dr.  F.  A.  Scott.  47 

*  Ice  Cave,  Paradise  Glacier A.  H.  Barnes.  57 

*  Spray  Park  from  Fay  Peak  W.  P.  Romans.  76 

Crevasse  in  Carbon  Glacier Asahel  Curtis.  85 

North  Mowich  Glacier  and  the  Mountain  in  a  Storm  George  V.  Caesar.  95 

ONE -COLOR     HALF     TONES 

St.  Elmo  Pass  A.  \V.  Archer.  2 

Sunrise  above  the  Clouds,  at  Camp  Curtis Asahel  Curtis.  2 

Narada  Falls  and  Eagle  Peak A.  H.  B.irnes.  6 

On  the  Summit  of  Eagle  Rock  in  Winter George  V.  Caesar.  7 

The  Mountain  from  Puyallup  River B.  L.  Aldrich.  Jr.  8 

White  Glacier  and  Little  Tahoma   Asahel  Curtis.  9 

*  Basaltic  Columns  near  end  of  South  Mowich  Glacier A.  H.  Waite.  9 

Crevasses  in  Stevens  Glacier,  with  Cowlitz  Glacier  Beyond Charles  Bedford.  10 

View  from  alx)ve  Sluiskin  Falls,  3  p.  m Mrs.  H.  A.  Towne.  11 

From  above  Sluiskin  Falls,  4  ]).  m..  same  day Mrs.  H.  A.  Towne.  13 

*  The  Mountain  from  Lake  Washington Romans  Photographic  Co.  14 

*  Lost  to  the  World Asahel  Curtis.  15 

Snow  Slopes,  Upper  Moraine  Park George  V.  Caesar.  15 

Iron  and  Copper  Mountains  in  Indian  Henry's   .\.  G.  Bowles,  .Ir.  16 

Ice  Terraces,  South  Tahoma  Glacier  Rodney  L.  Glisan.  16 

*  North  Peak  and  South  Mowich  Glacier  in  Storm A.  H.  Waite.  17 

■Ghost  Trees"   Mrs.  H.  A.  Towne.  18 

Mountain  Goat A.  H.  Barnes.  1 8 

Waterfall  over  Island  of  Rock,  Stevens  Glacier Dr.  F.  A.  Scott.  21 

View  South  from  Cowlitz  Glacier  to  Mt.  Adams  Charles  Bedford.  22 

Storm  King  Peak  and  Mineral  Lake A.  H.  Barnes.  23 

Mineral  Lake  and  the  Mountain  A.  H.  Denman.  23 

*  Snow  Lake  in  Indian  Henry's  A.  H.  Barnes.  24 

Cowlitz  Glacier,  Crevasses   Charles  Bedford.  25 

Paradise  River,  below  its  Glacier A.  H.  Barnes.  26 


22  THE  MOUXTAIX  THAT  WAS  "GOD' 


26 


Steam  Caves  in  one  of  the  Craters  Asahel  Curtis. 

West  Side  of  Summit  from  Tahoma  Fork A.  H.  Barnes. 

View  of  the  Mountain  from  Beljica  Peak A.  H.  Barnes.  28 

Great  Rock  on  Ridge  between  North  and  South  Tahoma  Glaciers.  .  .Dr.  F.  A.  Scott.  29 

Wind  swept  Trees  on  North  Side  . George  V.  Caesar.  30 

Exploring  an  Ice  Cave,  Paradise  Glacier Dr.  F.  A.  Scott.  30 

Peak  Success  from  Indian  Henry's  ^Ii'S.  H.  A.  Towne.  31 

Mt.  St.  Helens  from  Indian  Henry's A.  H.  Barnes.  32 

The  Mountain  from  Top  of  Cascades   S.  C.  Smith.  33 

Ptarmigan,  the  Grouse  of  the  Ice  Fields  Asahel  Curtis.  34 

Climbing  the  Ice  Terraces  of  Winthrop  Glacier Dr.  F.  A.  Scott.  34 

Portion  of  Spray  Park George  V.  Caesar.  35 

Perilous  Position  on  Crevasse  in  Cowlitz  Glacier  Charles  Bedford.  36 

On  Pierce  Coimty  Road,  Passing  Ohop  Valley  S.  C.  Lancaster.  37 

Cowlitz  Chimneys S.  C.  Smith.  37 

*  Old  Road  near  Spanaway  A.  H.  Barnes.  38 

Mystic  Lake  and  Sluiskin  Mountains  Asahel  Curtis.  38 

Automobile  Partv  above  Nisqually  Canyon.  Pierce  County  Road  .  . .  Asahel  Curtis.  39 

Prof.  O.  D.  Allen's  Cottage Dr.  F.  A.  Scott.  39 

One  Mile  of  Carbon  Glacier A.  H.  Denman.  40 

Camp  on  St.  Elmo  Pass.  North  Side  of  the  Wedge Asahel  Curtis.  40 

Little  Mashell  Falls,  near  Eatonville   A.  H.  Barnes.  41 

Old  Stage  Road  to  Longmire  Springs   A.  H.  Barnes.  42 

Government  Road  in  the  Forest  Reserve S.  C.  Lancaster.  43 

Ingraham  Glacier  Flowing  Into  Cowlitz  Glacier  Asahel  Curtis.  43 

*  On  the  Summit,  Showing  Columbia's  Crest    Asahel  Curtis.  44 

Party  Leaving  the  National  Park  Inn  for  Paradise  Park   Linkletter  Photo  Co.  44 

On  the  Government  Road  a  Mile  Above  Longmire's  . Linkletter  Photo  Co.  49 

Glacier  Table,  on  Winthrop  Glacier  Asahel  Curtis.  49 

Snout  of  Nisqually  Glacier    Linkletter  Photo  Co.  50 

Washington  Torrents A.  H.  Barnes.  50 

Coming  Around  Frying  -  Pan  Glacier  Dr.  F.  A.  Scott.  51 

Mt.  Adams,  seen  from  the  Indian  Henry  Trail  . A.  H.  Barnes.  51 

Indian  Henry's  Hunting  Ground  from  South  Tahoma  Glacier A.  H.  Denman.  52 

*  Southwest  Side  of  Mountain,  seen  from  Indan  Henry's A.  H.  Barnes.  53 

Junction  of  North  and  South  Tahoma  Glaciers  A.  H.  Denman.  54 

Winthrop  Glacier  and  St.  Elmo  Pass   Asahel  Curtis.  54 

Portion  of  Paradise  Valley  and  Tatoosh  Range A.  H.  Barnes.  55 

Eastern  Part  of  Tatoosh  Range  . A.  H.  Barnes.  55 

Ice  Bridge.  Stevens  Glacier  Dr.  F.  A.  Scott.  56 

Tug  of  War Asahel  Curtis.  56 

Reese's  Camp   . C.  E.  Cutter.  59 

Climbing  Paradise  Glacier Dr.  F.  A.  Scott.  59 

Nisqually  Glacier,  from  Top  of  Gibraltar  Rock Asahel  Curtis.  60 

Sluiskin  Falls,  below  Paradise  Glacier  A.  H.  Barnes.  61 

Looking  across  Winthrop  Glacier  to  Steamboat  Prow   Asahel  Curtis.  61 

Fairy  Falls,  in  Goat  Lick  Basin A.  H.  Barnes.  62 

*  Checkerboard  Crevasse,  Cowlitz  Glacier S.  C.  Smith.  63 

Paradise  Valley  and  Tatoosh  :Mountains   A.  H.  Barnes.  64 

Stevens  Canyon,  with  Mt.  Adams  in  Distance A.  H.  Barnes.  65 

Mountain  Climbers  on  St.  Elmo  Pass A.  W.  Archer.  66 

Passing  a  big  Crevasse  on  Interglacier Asahel  Curtis.  67 

The  Mountaineers  on  Winthrop  Glacier   Asahel  Curtis.  68 

Mountaineers  on  Carbon  Glacier  Asahel  Curtis.  68 

*  Nisqually  Glacier,  with  Its  Sources  . A.  H.  Barnes.  69 

Looking  North  from  Cowlitz  Chimneys  over  Cowlitz  Glacier   ....   Charles  Bedford.  70 

Measuring  the  Ice  Flow,  Nisqually  Glacier   Asahel  Curtis.  71 

One  of  the  Modern  Craters  Asahel  Curtis.  72-73 

Climbing  the  Cowlitz  Cleaver   . Asahel  Curtis.  72 

Lunching  in  a  Crevasse   Asahel  Curtis.  73 

Ice  -  bound  Lake,  Cowlitz  Park   S.  C.  Smith.  74 

Crevasses  in  Cowlitz  Glacier S.  C.  Smith.  74 

Mazamas  Rounding  Gibraltar   . Rodney  L.  Glisan.  77 

Climbing  the  "Chute."  West  Side  of  Gibraltar   Asahel  Curtis.  78 

View  of  the  Summit  from  Top  of  Gibraltar A.  H.  Waite.  79 


ii.i.rsTi;  v'l'ioxs 


13 


LooUiiiii  up  While  (Jhicii-r  lo  Liiilc  TaliDUia I>r.  F.  A.  Scott.  80 

North  Peak,  or  ••Liberty  Caii"   . A.  \V.  Arch.-r.  81 

t'lossins  a  Precii)itous  Slope,  White  Glacier A.  W.  Archer.  82 

Hydro  -  Electric  Plant  at    Electron 83 

nuildins  Taconia's  .\e\v  Power  Phiiil   on  the  Xisriually   (3) George  V.  Caesar.  84 

Adniiial  Peter  Rainier    87 

Echo  Rock,  on  West   Hraiicii  of  Carbon  ('.lacier   A.  W.  .Archer.  87 

EasL  Side  of  the  .Mountain  from  Suiniuer  Land   I.  H.  Fleit.  88 

View  North  from  Mt.  Ruth,  looking  over  Grand  Park  J.  13.  Flett.  89 

*  Looking  over  .Moraine  Park  to  Carbon  Glacier  .\sahel  Curtis.  90 

Anemones .Miss  .Jessie  Kershaw.  90 

.\  1  l-foot  Fir.  near  .Mineral  Lake  \.  11.  Harnes.  91 

Sunrise  in  Indian  Henry's  I'ark A.  11.  Harnes.  92 

.\n  F]minent  Scientist   Practices  the  Simple  Life   93 

Floral  Carpet  in  Indian  ll(niry"s A.  H.  Barnes.  93 

.Mountain  .Asters   A.  H.   Barnes.  94 

.\lpine  Hendock  and   .Meiiiiiaiii   Lilies   Mrs.  H.  A.  Towire.  94 

Studying  the  Phlo.\   J.  B.  Flett.  97 

Squaw  Grass  or  .Mountain  Lily  .Miss  Jessie  Kershaw.  97 

Mosses  and  Ferns Charles  Bedford.  98 

.Avalanche   Lilies    Asahel    Curtis.  99 

*  Moraine  Park.  Sluiskin  .Mountains  and  Moraine  Lake  .Asahel  Curiis.  ion 

Canada  Dogwood -Miss  .Jessie  Kershaw.  KM) 

The  .Mountain  from  Fox  Island  Charles  Bedford.  101 

Glacial  Debris.  Winthro))  Glacier Asahel  Curtis.  102 

Paradise  Valley,  with  South  -  Side  Route  to  the  Summit   .Asahel  Curiis.  102 

*  Oldest  and  Youngest  Climbers,  Gen.  Stevens  and  Jesse  McRae  ....  C.  E.  Cutter.  103 
P.  B.  Van  Trumi)  103 

*  Amphitheater  of  Carbon  Glacier  Asahel  Curtis.  104 

*  Avalanche  Falling  on  Willis  Wall..  Photo,  Lee  Bronson:   Copyright,  P.  V.  Caesar.  10.5 
East  Side  of  .Mountain,  with  Route  to  Summit  over  While  Glacier..  .Asahel  Curtis.  106 

Building  Trail  on  Carbon  Glacier  .Moraine    .Asahel   Curtis.  106 

.Mountaineers'  Camp  in  .Moraine  Park,  overlooking  Carbon  Glacier.  .Asahel  Curtis.  107 

Ice  Pinnacles,  or  Serracs,  on  Carbon  Glacier  . A.  W.  Archer.  107 

Ijooking  Southeast  from  Mt.  Rose,  above  Eunice  Lake  George  V.  Caesar.  108 

Ix)oking  Southwest  from  .Mt.  Rose George  V.  Caesar.  109 

*  S])ray    Falls    Asahel   Curtis.  110 

*  The  .Mountain  from  (^reen  River  Hot  Springs  C.  E.  Cutter.  1 1 1 

Returning  from  the  Summit Asahel  Curtis.  1 1 1 

MAPS 

Pug(>t  Sotind  Country  and  Roads  to  the  :\lountain   Inside  of  Back  Cover 

Rainier  .National  Park    Inside  of  Back  Cover 


From  above  Sluiskin  Falls,  at  4  p.  m.,  showing  (he  approach  of  a  storm.     Taken  same  day  as  preceding  view. 


o 


c. 


o 

01 

c 
d 

c 
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a 
o 


Cupyright,    190'J,   by   Asu.liel   Curtis 


Lost  to  the  WDrld.  7.5tH(  Icct  abo\c  scu  level. 


THE  MOUNTAIN  THAT  WAS ''GOD." 


MOrXT  '-HIG  SNOAV  AND  INDIAN  TRADITION. 

Age  cannot   wiihtT  hw.  nor  custom  stale 
Her  infinite  variety. — Antony  and  Cleopatra. 


THE  great  inountain  fascinates 
u.s  by  its  diversity.  It  is  ;ni 
itispirnt i(tii  ;m<l  \'t't  ;i  ridillr  In 
all  wlu)  are  tirawii  to  the  luxslerious 
(ti-  who  love  the  sublime.  Every  view 
which  the  breakinu'  clouds  vouchsafe 
to  us  is  a  surprise.  It  lun-er  becomes 
eniiitiHUiplace.  sjivc  to  llic  ('(uiiimni- 
]dace. 

< )](]  VirgiTs  ^ilie  at  iiiaidciiid  s 
better  half  —  "varium  ct  mutabilc 
semper  feinina"  -  iniuht  h;ivc  been 
written  of  this  licklc  shape  of  mvk 
and  ice  and  \<ip()r.  One  tries  vainly, 
year  after  year,  to  define  it  in  his 
own  mind.  The  daily.  honrl\'  clumi^c 
of  distance,  size  and  aspect.  tri(d<s 
which  the  Indinn's  iikuiiiI  ;i  in  liimI 
idays  with  the  puny  creatures  swarm- 
ing more  ami  more  about  his  foot,  his 
days  of  frank'  neiu]d)orliness.  his 
swift  transfornijit ions  from  smiles  to 
anger,  his  fits  of  suUenness  and  with- 


i";^^ 


if^'  ■- 


-A 


iV    i-^ 


/  *'.'^. 


>>^%5W 


\  r 


Crossing  a  Snou  Slope,  upper  part  of  .Moraine  Park. 


16 


THE    MOUNTAIN    THAT    WAS    "GOD" 


Iron  and  Copper  Mountains  (right)  in  Indian  Henry's.     The  top  of  Pyramid  Peak 
shows  in  the  saddle  beyond,  below  Peak  Success. 

drawal.  all  baffle  study.  Even  though  we  live  at  it.s  base,  it  is  impossible  to  say 
we  know  the  mountain,  so  various  are  the  spells  the  sun  casts  over  this  huge 
dome  which  it  is  slowly  chiseling  away  with  its  tools  of  ice,  and  which,  in 
coming  centuries,  it  will  level  with  the  plain. 

We  are  lovers  of  the  water  as  well  as  the  hills,  out  here  in  this  Northwestern 
corner  of  the  Republic.  We  spend  many  days  —  and  should  spend  more  —  in 
cruising  among  the  hidden  bays  and  park-like  islands  which  make  Puget  Sound 
the  most  interesting  body  of  water  in  America.  We  grow  a  bit  boastful  about 
the  lakes  that  cluster  around  our  cities.  Nowhere  better  than  from  sea  level, 
or  from  the  lakes  raised  but  little  above  it.  does  one  realize  the  bulk,  the  domi- 
nance, and  yet  the 
grace,  of  this  noble 
peak.  Its  impres- 
s  i  V  eness,  indeed, 
arises  in  part  from 
the  fact  that  it  is 
one  of  the  few 
great  volcanic 
m  0  u  ntains  whose 
entire  height  ma>' 
be  seen  from  tide 
level.  Many  of  us 
can  recall  views  of 
it  from  Lake  Wash- 
ington at  Seattle, 
or  from  American 

Ice  Terraces  on  South  Tahonia  Glacier.    These  vast  steps  are  one  ot  the  forniitions  seen  >    [)clU(l\\  <l  \     UdK( 

when  a  glacier  moves  down  a  steep  and  irregular  slope.  at      i    a  C  O  HI  a  ,      01' 


\  ^  ^  ^ 


a.  S 


.1 


.'.■.^^-:-^■JH  ■;»!«:  f...  v:i>v 


=  2 


I-    JL 


18 


THE   MOUNTAIN   THAT  WAS   "GOD" 


from  the  Sound,  which  will  always 
haunt  the  memory. 

Early  one  evening,  last  summer. 
I  went  with  a  friend  to  Point  De- 
fiance, Tacoma's  fine  park  at  the 
end  of  the  promontory  on  which 
the  city  is  built.  We  drank  in  re- 
freshment from  that  scene  of  broad 
channels  and  evergreen  shores.  "We 
watched  the  gathering  colors  in  the 
West,  over  the  Olympics.  As  sunset 
approached,  we  rowed  far  out 
Northward  into  the  Sound.  The 
Western  sky  became  a  conflagra- 
tion. Twilight  settled  upon  the  bay. 
The  lights  of  the  distant  town  came 
out,  one  by  one,  and  those  of  the  big 
smelter,  near  by.  became  brilliant. 
Xo  Turner  ever  dreamed  so  glorious 
a  picture  of  sunlight  and  shade. 
But  we  were  held  by  one  vision. 

Yonder,  in  the  Southeast,  tower- 
ing above  the  lower  shadows  of  har- 
bor and  hills,  rose  a  vast  pyramid 
of  soft  flame.  The  setting  sun  had 
thrown  a  mantle  of  rose  pink  over 
the  ice  of  the  glaciers  and  the  great 
cleavers  of  rock  which  buttress  the 
mighty  dome.  The  rounded  summit 


Mountain  Goat,  an  accidental  snap-shot 
at  a  distance  ot  100  feet. 


"Ghost  Trees."  These  white  stalks,  seen  in  Indian  Henry's  and 
Paradise  Valley,  tell  of  fires  set  by  careless  visitors. 

was  warm  with  beautiful  orange  light.  Soon 
the  colors  upon  its  slope  changed  to  deeper 
reds,  and  then  to  amethyst,  and  violet,  and 
pearl  gray.  The  sun-forsaken  ranges  below  fell 
away  to  dark  neutral  tints.  But  the  fires  upon 
the  crest  burned  on,  deepening  from  gold  to 
burnished  copper,  a  colossal  beacon  flaming 
liigh  against  the  sunset  purple  of  the  Eastern 
skies.  Finally,  even  this  great  light  paled  to 
a  ghostly  white,  as  the  supporting  foundation 
of  mountain  ridges  dropped  into  the  darkness 
of  the  long  Northern  twilight,  until  the  snowy 
summit  seemed  no  longer  a  part  of  earth,  but 


a 

3 


-^•^  X. 


/ 


MUL'NT    'lUG    SXOW"   AND   INDIAN     IliMHTlON 


21 


a  veil  (if  iiii<-;iiiii.\- mist,  (•.•luulit  up  l)y  the  winds  rrom  lln'  I'.M-ilic  jukI  lld.ilin-  \':iv 
above  tlir  lil.ii-k  sl<y-liiif  oT  ihc  solid  ( ";is<'ii<ii's.   ih.il 

*       *       *       licavon-sustainiiiK  hulwaiK.  ir;ii<'(l 
Between  thr  East  and  West. 

And  when  even  this  ai)i)iii"iti(»n  li.id  t'adeil.  aii<l  ilir  .Muimiaiii  appeared  oidy 
as  a  (lini  hulk  silhouctliMl  upon  the  niuht.  then  canic  llir  mirarlc.  ( Icadually. 
the  East,  licyoiui  the  j^rcat  hills,  showed  a  faitit  liLilil.  'I'ln-  prolilc  o|'  the  pi'ak 
beeamc  iiioi'c  dctinite.  With  no  other  wai'iiiiiL;-.  sudd(id\  IVom  iK  suiiiniii  ihc 
fnll  iiiooii  shot  t'ortli.  liULic  majestic  and  <^i-aeioiis.  lloodiiiLi  the  hiwei-  world 
with  hriuht  iiess.  Clouds  and  mounlain  I'auij^es  alike  shoin'  with  its  •rlory.  lint 
the  great  peak  h»omed  hla(d<ei-  and  moi-e  sidlen.  ()nly.  on  its  head,  the  wide 
crown  ot  snow  gleamed  while  under  the  eold  rays  of  the  moon. 

Xo  wonder  that  this  mouidain  (d'  chan<;in^'  moods.  o\ crtoppinLj  every  othei- 
eminence  in  the  Northwest,  answered  tlu'  i(h'a  of  (iod  io  the  simple.  imai:ina1  ive 
mind  of  the  In- 
dians who  hunted 
in  the  forest  on 
its  slopes  or 
fi  s  h  e  d  in  the 
waters  that  ebbed 
and  tlowed  at  its 
has  e.  Primitive 
peoples  in  every 
land  have  deified 
superlative  mani- 
festations of  na- 
ture —  the  sin  I. 
t  h  e  wind,  the 
great  rivers  ami 
w  ate  rfalls,  the 
high  mountains. 
By  all  the  tribes 
within  sight  of  its 
snmmii.  this  pre- 
eminent peak, 
called  by  them 
Taeoma.  Tahoma 
or  Tacob,  as  wlio 
should  say  "The 
Great  Snow,  "was 
deemed  a  power 
to  be  feared  atid 
conciliated.  Even 
when  the  mission- 
aries taught  them     ^ 

a  better  taith,  they  Waterfall  over  IslanJ  of  rock,  middle  of  Stevens  Glacier.     Note  the  Ice  Wall  abovi 


MOINI-      I'.K;    S.\()\V    and   INDIAN    'IK A 1  HIION 


23 


moiirilniii  ill  siipcr- 
stiliotis     reverence  — 

,111    ;i\\c    lli;il    still    li;is 

power  t(»  silciici'  their 
'  "rivilizeil '"  ;iii(l  \ery 
Ulll'Olll.llll  ie  cIcSCI'IkI- 
.•II I  Is. 

The  I'li-jvl  Sduiid 
ti"ibes.  wilti  llie  \ ak- 
iiiijis,    Kiickitjits    ;iii(l 

111  hei's    li\iliL;-   just     !)('- 

>()ii(|  the  Cascades, 
h;i(l  sultst;iiiti;ill\-  the 
s  a  in  e  lanyuaye  and 
heliefs.  thouLih  diifer- 
ini;-  ill  physicil  lypo. 
East  oJ'  tile  rnime. 
they  lived  by  the 
c  h  ii  s  e.  They  were 
great  horsemen  and 
famous  I'uiniers,  a   breed   of  litlu 


Ntiiicral  l.akc  and  the  MoiiiUain. 


Storm  King  I'cak  and  Mineral  l.akc,  viewed  (roni  near  Mineral  Lake  Inn. 

iipstandinu'.  handsome  nn'ii.  Here  on  tlie 
('nast  wei-e  the  "DifTfjer" 
1  lilies,  who  subsisted  chiefly 
by  s  p  e  a  r  i  II  l:  salmon  and 
diii'trine:  chniis.  Their  stooped 
fi«iiires.  fhit  faces,  downcast 
eyes  mid  h>w  mentality  re- 
flected the  life  they  led.  Con- 
irasiiiiL:    their    lunivy    bodies 

wilh     llleir    feeble    IcLiS.    wllicll 

urew  shorler  with  disuse,  a 
Tacunia  liniiiorisl  last  sum- 
mer uravely  proved  to  a 
party  of  Engli.sh  visitors  that 
in  a  few  years  more,  had  not 
(he  white  man  seized  their 
tisliiiii:  .i:r( Minds,  the  Siwashes 
would  have  had  no  legs  at  all. 
Stolid  as  he  .seemed  to  the 
whites,  the  Indian  of  the 
Sound  was  not  without  his 
touch  of  poetry.  lie  had  that 
imauinative  curiosity  which 
marked  the  native  American 


o 


U 


J 
i 

■jr. 

u 


i 


-3 
u 

T3 


o 


MOUNT     lUG  SXOW"  AND  INDIAN  TRADITION 


25 


Cowlitz  Glacier,  Crevasses  caused  by  flexure  in  its  bed 


everywhere.  Tic  was  ever  peering:  into  the  causes  of  thiiitrs.  and  seeing  the 
supernatural  in  tlic  world  around  him.  * 

To  the  'jreat  Snow  Mountain  the  Indians  made  t're(iuent  pilgrimages,  for 
they  thought  this  king  of  the  primeval  wild  a  divinity  to  be  reckoned  with. 
They  dreaded  its  anger,  seen  in  the  storms  about  its  head,  the  thunder  of  its 
avalanches,  and  tlic  volcanic  flashes  of  wliich  their  traditions  told.  They 
courted  its  favoi-.  syndjolized  in  the  wild  flowers  that  bloomed  on  its  slope,  and 
the  tall  grass  that  fed  the  mowich,  or  deer. 

As  tlu\v  ascendc(l  the  v;isl    i-idgcs.  the  grandeur  about  them  spoke  of  the 


*  Among  those  who  have  studied  the  Puget  Sound  Indians  most  synipatheticaUy  is  the 
Rev.  Mr.  Hylebos  of  Tacoma.  He  came  to  the  Northwest  in  1870,  when  the  Federal  census 
gave  the  sawmill  hamlet  of  Tacoma  a  white  population  of  seventy-three,  and  while  the 
Indians  hereabout  numbered  thousands.  In  those  days,  says  Father  Hylebos,  the  Tacoma 
tideflats,  now  filled  in  for  mills  and  railway  terminals,  were  covered  each  autumn  with  the 
canoes  of  Indians,  spearing  salmon  for  their  winter's  supply.  It  was  no  uncommon  thing 
to  see  at  one  time  on  Commencement  Bay  600  boats,  1,800  fishermen.  This  veteran  worker 
among  the  Siwashes  (French,  sauvages)  first  told  me  the  myths  that  hallowed  the  mountain 
for  every  native,  and  the  true  meaning  of  the  beautiful  Indian  word  "Tacoma."  He  knew 
well  all  the  leaders  of  the  generation  before  the  railways:  Sluiskin,  the  Klickitat  chief  who 
guided  Stevens  and  Van  Trump  up  to  the  snow  line  when  they  made  the  first  ascent  in  1870; 
Stanup.  chief  of  the  Puyallups;  Kiskax.  head  of  the  Cowlitz  tribe;  Angeline,  the  famous 
daughter  of  Chief  Seattle,  godfather  of  the  city  of  that  name,  and  many  others. 


IG 


THE   MOUNTAIN   THAT   WAS   "GOD" 


m  o  u  11  tain  god. 
There  w  e  r  e 
groves  of  trees  he 
must  have  plant- 
ed, so  0  r  d  e  r  1  y 
were  they  set  out. 
The  lakes  of  the 
loft  y  V  a  1  leys 
see  m  e  d  calmer 
than  those  on  the 
])rairies  b  e  1  o  av. 
the  f  0  1  i  a  g  c 
bright  er.  The 
song  of  the 
waterfalls  h  e  r  e 
was  sweeter  than 
the  music  of  the 
tamahna  was  men , 
their  Indian  sor- 
cerers. The  many 
small  meadows 
close  to  the 
snow  -  line,    c  a  r- 

peted  in  deepest  green  and  spread  with  flowers,  were  the  gardens  of  the 
divinity,  tended  by  his  superhuman  agents.  Xo  wood  in  ancient  Greece  was 
ever  peopled  by  hamadryads  so  real  as  the  little  gods  whom  the  Indian  saw  in 
the  forests  watered  bv  streams  from  Tacoma's  glaciers. 


Paradise  River,  below  its  Glacier,  with  Little  Tahonia  in  distance. 


y 


fi 


#  .^v  ^■ 


Steam  Caves  in  one  ot  the  Craters.     The  residual  heat  of  the  evtinct  \'olcano  canses  steam  and  Sases  to  escape  from 
vents  in  the  rims  of  the  two  small  Craters.      Alpinists  often  spend  a  night  in  the  (;a\es  thns  formed  in  the  Snow. 


West  Side  ot  ihe  Sunimit.  seen  troin   Tahoma  Fork  of  the  Nisgually.     Note  the  whilenesslof  the  GlaciallWater 


o 


73 


MOUNT   -IMC    SNOW"   AXD    INDIAN     lii  A  I  HIK  )N 


Great  Rock  on  the  Ridfte  separating  the  North  and  South  Tahoma  Glaciers,  with  Tahoina  I*ork  of  the  Nisgually 

se\eral  miles  bclou.     Seen  ridht  of  center  on  page  2H. 

Countless  snows  had  fallen  since  the  mountain  ^od  created  and  hcautified 
this  home  of  his,  when  one  day  he  grew  angry,  and  in  his  w  i-ath  showed  terrible 
tongues  of  fire.  Thus  he  ignited  an  immense  tir  forest  on  ihc  south  side  of 
the  peak.  When  his  anger  subsided,  the  flames  passed,  and  the  land  they  left 
bare  became  covered  with  blue  grass  and  wild  flowers  —  a  great  sunny  country 
where,  befoi-e,  the  dark  forest  had  been.  Borrowing  a  word  from  llic  Frcndi 
coureurs  des  bois  who  came  with  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  the  later 
Indians  sometimes  called  this  region  "the  Big  Brule";  and  to  this  day  some 
Americans  call  it  the  same.  l'>ut  tor  the  Big  Brule  the  Indians  had.  from 
ancient  times,  another  name,  connected  with  their  ideas  of  religion.  It  was 
their  Saghalie  Illahe,  the  "Land  of  Peace,"  Heaven.  Our  name,  "Paradise 
Valley,"  given  to  the  beautiful  open  vale  on  the  south  slope  of  the  mountain, 
is  an  English  equivalent. 

Here  Avas  the  same  bar  to  violence  which  religion  has  erected  in  many  lands. 
The  Hebrews  had  their  "Cities  of  Refuge."  The  pagan  ancients  made  every 
altar  an  asylum.  ^Mediaeval  Christianity  constituted  all  its  churches  sanctuaries. 
Thus,  in  lawless  ages,  the  hand  of  vengeance  was  stayed,  and  the  weak  were 
protected. 


30 


THE   MOUNTAIN    THAT   WAS   -GOD- 


J*-*--. 


Wind  Swept  Trees  on  North  Side,  the  last  below  the  line  of  Eternal  Snow 


So.  too.  the  Indian 
trad  ition  ordained 
this  liomc  of  rest  and 
refngc.  Indian  cus- 
tom was  an  eye  for 
an  (\v('.  Itut  on  gain- 
ing this  m  0  u  n  tain 
liaven  the  pursued 
was  safe  from  his 
pursuer,  the  slayer 
might  not  be  touched 
l»y  his  victim's  kin- 
d  r  e  d.  W  hen  he 
crossed  its  border, 
the  warrior  laid  down 


his    arms.     Criminals 
and  cowards,  too,  were  often  sent  here  by  the  chiefs  to  do  penance. 

The  mountain  divinity,  with  his  under-gods,  figures  in  much  of  the  Siwash 
folk-lore,  and  the  "Land  of  Peace"  is  often  heard  of.  It  is  through  such 
typical  Indian  legends  as  that  of  the  Greedy  Hiaqua  Hunter  that  we  learn  how 
large  a  place  the  great  Mountain  filled  in  the  thought  of  the  aboriginees. 

This  myth  also  explains  why  an  Indian  could  never  be  persuaded  to  make 
the  ascent,  farther  than  the  snow  line.  Even  so  shrewd  and  intelligent  a 
Siwash  as  Sluis- 
kin.  with  all  his 
keenness  for 
' '  Boston  chika  - 
min,"  the  white 
man's  money,  re- 
fused to  accom- 
pany Stevens  and 
Van  Trump,  in 
1870;  and  indeed 
gave  them  up  as 
doomed  when 
they  defied  the 
M  0  u  n  t  a  i  n  '  s 
wrath  and  start- 
ed for  the  sum- 
mit in  spite  of 
liis  warnings. 

The    hero    of 
the  Hiaqua  Myth  '     ^'^ 

IS   the    Indian    Rip  Exploring  an  ice  Ca\e.  Paradise  Glacier. 


\'ieu  i>f  IV-.iU  Success  and  West  side  nf  the  Mountain  from  Indian   Henr>'s.  "ith  reHection. 


1fciS*!Wrtfti^*^i  *' 


Rounded  Cone  of  Mt.  St.  Helens,  seen  from  Indian  Henry's,  50  miles  aw 


ay. 


MOUNT    iUG  SNOW  AND  INDIAN    IKAhl  IION 


33 


\';.  I.  Wiiikl.'.  • 
Crazy  for  liiaqua, 

(ir  slirll  iiiiiiiey, 
;iMil  |i(i-sua(lod  by 

Moosinoos,!!"'  <*lk 
<li\iiiil y.  liis  own 
f olcMi.  that  on  top 
of  Ihc  mountain 
he  w  (t  n  I  (I  find 
tri'cat  .st()i-(j  of  it, 
he  (•liiiil)od  to  the 
sninniit.  Here  he 
riiiiMil  three  ])\ir 
rocks,  one  of 
wliieli  looked  like 
li  i  s  f  r  i  e  n  <]  !  y 
Moosnioos.  Uv(,'r- 
turninfr  this  after 
lonjr  difr^'ing,  he 
uncovered  many 
sti-inL:s  n|'  liiaqna 
— enoncrh  to  make 
him     the     richest 

iif     liicll.       liul     lit' 

meanly  seized  it 
all.  leaving  no 
1  hank-ofl'erinf;  to 
tlie  tamahnawas 
powers.  There- 
upon  the  whole 
earth  shook  with 
a  mighty  convul- 
sion, and  the  Mountain  shot  forth  terrible  fires  and  poured  streams  of  water 
(lava?)  down  its  sides. 

Panic-stricken  at  the  results  of  his  greed,  the  man  1hi-ew  down  his  load  of 
treasure  to  propitiate  the  angry  deity;  and  then  fell  on  the  ground  and  entered 
the  land  of  sleep.  Long,  long  after,  he  aAvoke  to  find  himself  far  from  the 
summit,  in  a  pleasant  country  of  beautiful  meadows,  carpeted  with  flowers, 
and  musical  with  the  song  of  birds.  He  had  grown  very  old.  with  snow-white 
hair  falling  to  his  shoulders.  Recognizing  the  scene  about  him  as  Saghalie 
Illahe,  he  sought  his  old  tent.  It  was  where  he  had  left  it.  and  there,  too,  was 
his  "klootchman,"  or  wife,  grown  old.  like  himself.  Back  they  went  to  their 
home  on  the  bank  of  the  Cowlitz,  where  they  spent  the  rest  of  their  days  in 
great  honor.     For  his  tribesmen  recognized  that  the  aged  Indian's  heart  had 


The  Muuiitain,  seen  from  top  of  the  Cascades,  with  party  startiniS  due  West 

for  Paradise  Valley. 


*   See  Prof.  W.  D.  Lyman's  papers  on  the  Indian  legon<is.  in  "Mazama,"  Vol.  2,  and  "The 
Mountaineer,"  Vol.   2;  also  Winthrop's  "Canoe  and  Saddle." 


o4 


THE   MOrXTAlX    THAT   WAS     -GOD" 


V 


Ptarmigan,  the  Grouse  of  the  ice-fields.     Unlike  its  neighbor,  the  Mountain  Goat, 

this  bird  is  tame,  and  may  sometimes  be  caught  by  hand.     In  winter, 

its    plumage    turns    from    brown    to    white. 

crude   but   very   positive   mind.     Ever  by   his   side   the 
Power   that   dwelt   on   Tacoma.   protecting   and   aiding 
to    destruction.      Knowing     nothing    of   true     worship, 
genee  could  imagine  God  only  in  things  either  the  most 
terrifying;  and  the  more  we  know  the  Mountain,   the 
understand   why  he  deemed  the  majestic   peak  a   factor 
infinite  force  that  could,  at  will,  bless  or  destroy. 


been  m  a  r  v  e  1  ously 
softened  and  his  mind 
enriched  by  his  ex- 
p  e  r  i  e  n  c  e  upon  the 
mountain.  Thus  he 
became  the  most  re- 
spected of  all  the 
tamahnawas  men  of 
his  time. 

Such  legends  show 
the  Northwestern  In- 
dian, like  savages 
everywhere,  mingling 
his  conception  of 
Deity  with  his  ideas 
of  the  evil  one.  Sym- 
bolism  pervaded   his 

old  Siwash  felt  the 
him,  or  leading  him 
his  primitive  intelli- 
beautiful  or  the  most 
more  easily  we  shall 

of  his  destinv  —  an 


c^ •» 


y 


i 


(Climbing  the  Ice  Terraces  of  \\  inthrop  Glacier. 


Portion  of  Spras   Park,  uitli  North  Side  view  o(  the  Mountain,  showing  Observation  Rock  and  Timber  Line. 

Klevation  of  (Camera.  7.(HKI  feel. 


A  perilous  position  on  the  edge  of  a  great  Crevasse.     Cowlitz  Glacier,  near  end  of  Cathedral  Rocks. 


LancasU  f 


On  Pierce  County's  splendid  scenic  roiul  l<>  llu-  M(niiil;iiii.      rasslnfi  Oliop  X'ullcy. 

II. 

THE  NATIONAL  PARK  AND  HOW  To  UKMW    IT. 

There  are  plenty  of  higher  mountains,  but  it  is  the  decided  isolation  —  the  absolute 
standing  alone  in  lull  majesty  of  its  own  mightiness  —  that  forms  the  attraction  of 
Rainier.  *  *  *  It  is  no  squatting  giant,  ])erched  on  the  shoulders  of  other 
mountains.  From  Puget  Sound,  it  is  a  sight  for  the  gods,  and  one  feels  in  the  presence 
of  the  gods.  —  Paul  Fountain:    "The  Seven  Eaglets  of  the  West"   (London,  1905). 


THE  first  explorers  to  climb  the  .Moiiiilniii.  forty  years  ago.  were  compelled 
to  make  their  way  from  Puyet  Sound  through  the  dense  growths  of  one 
of  the  world 's  greatest 
forests,  over  lofty  ridges  and 
deep  canyons,  and  across  per- 
ilous glacial  torrents.  The 
hardships  of  a  journey  to  the 
timber  line  w-ere  more  form- 
idable than  any  difficulties  to 
be  encountered  above  it. 

Even  from  the  East  1lu' 
first  railroad  to  the  Coast  had 
.just  reached  San  I^'i'anciseo. 
Thence  the  travclrr  eame 
north  to  the  Sound  l)y  boat. 
The  now  busy  cities  of  Seattle 
and    Tacoma    wci'e.    one.    an 

ambitious  village  of  1.107  in- 
habitants; the  other,  a  saw- 
mill, with  seventy  i)ersons  liv-     "- 

ing      around      it.        They      were  Cowlit?  Chimneys,  seen  from  basin  below  Frying- Pan  Glacier. 


38 


THE  MOUNTAIN   THAT  WAS  -GOD" 


On  the  way  out  from  Tacoma  the  Automobilist  sees  many  scenes  like  this  Old  Road  near  Spanaway  Lake 

frontier  settlements,  outposts  of  civilization ;  but  civilization  paid  little 
attention  to  them  and  their  great  Mountain,  until  the  railways,  some  years 
later,  began  to  connect  them  witli  the  big  wm-ld  of  people  and  markets  beyond 
the  Rockies. 

How  dift'ereut  the  case  today!     Six  transcontinental  railroads  noAv  deliver 
their  trains  in  the  Puget  Sound  cities.    These  are :    The  Northern  Pacific,  which 


Mystic  Lake  and  Sluiskin  Mmintains. 


Till-:   XA'I'IOXAI.    I'AItK    AM)    HOW  TO  REACH    IT 


39 


Automobile  Party  abo\c  Nisgiuilly  (Canyon,  Pierce  County  Kciad  lo  ihc  Moiintain. 


was  the  first  trunk  line  to  reach  the  Sound;  the  Great  Northern;  the  Chicago, 
lini-lino-ton  &  Quincy ;  the  Chicauo,  Milwaukee  &  Pupret  Sound;  the  Oregon  & 
Wasiiington  (Union  Pacific),  and  the  Canadian  Pacific.  A  seventh,  the  North 
Coast,  will  soon  be  added. 

Arriving  in  Seattle  or  Tacoma,  the  traveler  has  his  choice  of  quick  and  en- 
joyable routes  to  the  IMountain.  He  may  go  by  automobile,  leaving  either  city 
ill  the  iiioniing.  After  traveling  one  of  the  best  and  most  inlcresting  roads  in 
llic  country  —  the  first  and  only  otic  in  fact,  to  reach  a  Lilacicr  —  lie  may  take 

luncheon  at  noon 
.six  thousand  feet 
higher,  in  Para- 
dise Park,  clost> 
1  ()  the  line  of 
eternal  snow.  Or 
he  may  go  by 
Ihe  comfortable 
trains  of  the  Ta- 
coma Eastern 
'  Alilwaukee  sys- 
tem j  to  A.shford. 
fifty-six  miles 
iVom  Tacoma. 
and  then  by  au- 
tomobile stages 
over  a  perfect 
road  to  the  Xa- 

Prof.  O.  D.  .\llen's  Cottage,  in  the  Forest  Reserye,  »yhere  the  former  'S  ale  professor 

has  for  years  studied  the  Flora  o{  the  Mountain.  tlOnai     1   .ll'K     I  1111 


40 


THE  MOUNTAIN  THAT  WAS  "GOD" 


One  mile  of  Carbon  Glacier,  where  it  has  cut  its  way  through  the  Mountains. 
Sluiskin  Mountains  on  right.  Mother  Mountains  on  left. 


at  Longmire 
Springs  (altitude 
2,730  feet). 
Lunching  there, 
he  may  then  go 
on,  afoot,  by  au- 
tomobile over  the 
new  government 
road,  or  on  horse- 
back over  a  ro- 
mantic trail,  to 
Paradise. 

Either  of  these 
ways  of  reaching 
the  Mountain 
will  be  a  happy 
choice,  for  each 
of  them  leads 
through  a  coun- 
try of  uncommon 
charm.  Each  of 
them,  too,  will 
carry  the  visitor 
up  from  the 
Sound  to  the 
great    and   beau- 


tiful region  on 
the  southern  slopes  which  includes  the  Nisqually  canyon.  Paradise  valley,  the 
Tatoosh  range,   the   Stevens   canyon,   and   Indian  Henry's   Hunting   Ground. 


%^- 


Camp  on  St.  Elmo  Pass,  North  side  of  the  Wedge,  between  Winthrop  Glacier  and  Interglacier.     Elevation,  9,000  feet. 

Winthrop  Glacier  and  the  fork  of  White  River  which   it  feeds  are   seen  in  distance  below.     The  man   is 

Maj.  E.  S.  Ingraham,  a  veteran  explorer  of  the  Mountain,  after  whom  Ingraham  Glacier  is  named. 


Little  Mashcll  Falls,  near  Katnn\lllc 


Old  Stage  Road  to  Longmire  Springs  and  the  National  Park  Inn.  showing  the  tall,  clear  trunks  o(  the  giant  Firs 


THK   XATIOXAl.    I'.MCK    AM.    Il»)\\    TO   UKACIl    11 


43 


I'll'-  111  liiiii  st;i>  .1  (l.iy  or  n  in<»iitli. 
Il\riy  iiiniiinii  i,r  th,.  liiiif  will  III-  cniw-tlcii 
witli  <-iijuyiiiriit.  Mr  iii;iy  i-.iiiti-nl  lnms«'lf 
witli    Miiiw  li.illiii'^    his    i-<iiii|i:iiiiiiiis    ill    iiiid- 

>;illNllir|\  ,||ii|  willi  |.in|<ili._r  (l(i\\  II  tVidll  Allil 
N'istjl  (•■icV.-ltidll.  li.lMKI  fcrl  I  nil  tllr  lii'J 
\isi|l|;illy     y-jjlciri-     ill     till'     (•;ill\<ill     wliicli     it 

li.is  cut  i'di-  itself.  ;iii(|  ii|i  its  steep  slopes  to 
its  iicvr  iicld.  Ill)  till'  siiiiiinit.  <  »r  In-  ni.'iy 
ixpliirc  tliis  wlidlr  rcjidii  ;it  jrisiiri-.  cliiiili- 
Iiil:  h;ii-i|  iiiiiiiiit:iiii  tniils,  olit  ;i  iiiiiiii'  iiiiiLriiili- 
criii  views,  wnrkin'j  up  (i\er  tlie  (.rlacicrs. 
stutl.\ing  tlieif  crevasses,  iee  eaves  and  How. 

lie  limy  even  sc;ile  tlle  pealc.  llll«lei-  the  safe 
le;i(|('rslii  p  lit'  I'.x  pc!'ii'iii-i'(|  Liiii'les.  lie  may 
waiidei'  at  will  uxei-  the  \ast  platform  li-ft 
by  tlie  pi'ehistorie  explosinii  wliicli  tr\iii- 
eated  the  g;reat  edtie.  .hkI  perhaps  spend  a 
iiiaht  of  seiisat  imial  iinvelly  .ind  diseom- 
lorl  '  ill  a  big  steam  cave,  iiiider  the  snow, 
inside  a  ei-atei-. 

The  south  side  has  the  advanta«re  of  otYer- 
iuiz  th(^  wildest   alpine  sport   in   eondiination   with   a   well-appointetl   hnlel   as  a 


Government  Road  in  the  Forest  Reserve. 


Ingraham  Glacier  eniplying  into  Cowlitz  Glacier,  over  an  800-foot  fall,  one  of  ihe  finest  ice  cascades  on  the  Mountain. 


44 


THE  MOUNTAIN   THAT   WAS  'GOD' 


U  f  li 


Copyright,   19u9.   by   Asahel   Curtis 
On  the  Summit,  showing  Columbia's  Crest,  the  great  Mound  of  Snow  that  has,  most  curiously, 
formed  on  this  wide  wind-swept  platform. 

base  of  operations.  Hence  the  majority  of  visitors  to  the  ^Mountain  know  only 
that  side.  Everybody  should  know  it.  too ;  but  should  also  know  that  it  is  by 
no  means  the  only  side  to  see. 

One  may,  of  course,  work  around  from  the  Nisqually  canyon  and  Paradise. 
east  or  west,  to  the  other  glaciers  and  "parks."  It  is  quite  practicable,  if  not 
easy,  to  make  the  trip  eastward  from  Camp  of  the  Clouds  in  Paradise  Park, 
crossing  Paradise,  Stevens  and  Cowlitz  glaciers,  and  thus  to  reach  the  huge 
White  glacier  on  the  east  side  and  Winthrop  and  Carbon  glaciers  on  the  north. 
Every  summer  sees  more  and  more  visitors  making  this  wonderful  journey. 


Lea\ing  the  National  l*ark  Inn  at  l.ongmire  Springs  (elevation,  2,7.M)  feel)  tor  the  Summit. 


View   Northward  from   lop  of    Pinnacle   Peak,  7,200   feet  elevation,    to   Paradise  Valley,    Nisgually  Glacier  and 

Gibraltar   Roclc,  eicKt   miles  away 


•^i 


^^  ^t 


.A.I 


>kUi«'*' 


LooUins  Northeast   trom  slope  of   Pinnacle  Peak,   across   Paradise.  Stevens.  Cowiilz  and   Hryinit  Pan  Glacier*. 

These   two  views   form   virtually  a   panorama 


\       Tiv- 


Till':    XATIONAI.    I'AKK    AM)    IIOW     iO    i;i:\(ll    IT 


49 


lk^ 

«,  1  ir  r  i4  1  JM 

"  "^ik  .^Htek 

iEeKc^  ''C 

^B^^^lka-'* '  ^L'          ^^^^^^^tSBB^^^^fS^       k£.^^u^WL'  ^^^tfPs  1^I^^^B^^M^9sir 

-^n»ib^^.^ 

?t:&^»/V'*E^' 

H^S 

On  the  Government  Road  a  mile  above  Longmire's. 


Another  way  to  roach  the  great  north  side,  and  perhaps  the  most  practic- 
able way,  especially  for  parties  which  carry  camp  e<|uipiiiriit.  is  l>y  a  Northern 
Pacific  train  over  the  Carbonado  branch  to  Fairfax.  This  is  on  Carbon  river, 
live  miles  from  the  nortliAvest  corner  of  the  National  Park.  Thence  the  traveler 
will  go  by  horse  or  afoot,  over  a  safe  mountain  trail,  to  Spray  Park,  the  fascinat- 
ing region  between  Carbon  and  North  jMowich  glaciers.  Standing  here,  on  such 
an  eminence  as  Fay  Peak  or  Eagle  Cliff,  he  may  have  views  of  the  Mountain 
and  its  noblest 
features  tliat  will 
a  thousand  times 
repay  the  labor 
of  attainment. 

A  visit  to  this 
less  known  side 
involves  the  ne- 
cessity of  pack- 
ing an  outfit.  But 
arrangements  for 
liorses  and  pack- 
ers are  easily 
made,  and  each 

\  ear     an      lliereaS-  Glacier  Xable  on   Winthiop   Glacier.     This   phenomenon   is   due   to  the  nultine  of   the 

IlliX      number      of  glacier,  and  the  consequent  lowering  of  its  level  save  where  sheltered   by  the 

rock.     Under  the  Sun's  rays,  these  "tables"  incline  more  and  more 
parties       make  to  the  Somh.  until  they  linally  slide  oir  their  pedestals. 


^^«8MK^ 

'     1 

^ 

^         ^ 

50 


THE  MOUNTAIN  THAT  WAS  "GOD" 


Snout  of  NisquaUy  Glacier,  with  Government  Road  and  Bridge.     The   Ice   Front  here 

is  500  to  600  feet  high.     Elevation  of  river  flowing  forth  belou 

is  4,000  feet  above  sea  le\el. 


S;  p  r  a  y   Park 

their   headquar- 
ters. From  there 

they    go    soutli. 

over    the     west 

side  glaciers,  or 

east,   across  the 

Carbon   an  d 

t  h  r  o  n  g  h    the 

great     White 

river    country. 

They    camp    on 

the    north    side 

of  the   Sluiskin 

mountains,      i  n 

Moraine    Park. 

and   there   have 

ready  access  to 

Carbon    and 

AVinthrop      gla- 
ciers, with  splendid  views  of  the  vast  precipices  that  form  the  north  face  of  the 

Monntain.     Thence  they  climb  east  and  south  over  the  AVinthrop  and  AVhite 

glaciers.  They  visit  the 
beautiful  Grand  Park 
and  Summer  Land,  and 
either  make  the  ascent 
to  the  summit  from 
"the  AA^edge,"  over  the 
long  ice  slope  of  the 
AVhite  glacier,  or  con- 
tinue around  to  the  Par- 
adise country  and  Long- 
mire  Springs. 

The  west  side  has 
been  less  visited  than 
any  other,  but  there  is 
a  trail  from  the  North 
]\I  o  w  i  c  h  to  the  Nis- 
quaUy, and  from  this 
adventurous  explorers 
reach  North  and  South 
Mowich  and  Puyallup 
glaciers.  No  one  has 
.,,   ,.        ^  vet   climbed  the  Moun- 

>%  ashington   1  orrents,  a  series  of  falls  seen  from  the  new  Government 

Road  to  Paradise.  tain  ovcr  tliosG  glaciers. 


Till-:   XATIOXAI.   I'AKK    AM)   IIOW   TO  REACH    IT 


51 


or    t'  r  II  HI    I  lie 

luti'th      siilc.      A 

view     rfiiiii     ;iiiy 

(if  tlif  t  i';iils  will 

ex  pi  ;i  i  II      w  liy . 

The   ji'reat    fork 

spines  arc  mkut 

ju'ecipitoiis  I  li.iii 

t'lsewlu'i'c.      1  li  (• 

l:I  .Meiers    inor-e 

lii'dkt'ii  :  ntid  1  lie 

siiniiiiit  is  friiiil- 

ed  on  either  side 

l)y  a  huge  para- 

pcl  of  rock  wliicli  liiii-]s  (Icfinticc  ;it  ;iiiyt  hiiii;  sliorl  of  an  airslii|i.     I  )oiilit  less.  \\f 

shall  some  day  travel  to  Crater  Pi'ak  hy  aeroplanes.  Init  until  these  vehicles  an* 

eipiipjied  with  runners  for  landing-  and  staiMini:'  on  ilu'  siiow.  \vc  sliall  do  best 

to  plan  our  ascents  from  the  soiitli  or  east  side. 

I  have  thus  briefly  point(Hl  out  the  favorite  routes  followed  in  exploring  the 
National  I'ai'k.     The  time  is  fast  ap[)roacliing:  when  it   will  he  ;i  1  riily  national 


(^omint  iinmiid  F ryiii)'- run  (Jiacicr. 


Mt.  Adams,  seen  from  the  Indian  Henry  Trail  seems  a  replica  of  Rainicr-Tacoma.  as  viewed  from  the  west. 

The  distance  is  about  forty  miles. 


a 
c 


o 


c    c 

<U     3 


2  - 

c  "o 

O  C 

?-  s 

c  u 


•?! 


a> 


0* 


a:5 
o.    . 


o    >. 


-01     ^ 


O 

o 


o  -s 


3 
O 
C/! 


e  : 
1  - 

Q.  a 
a  eu 

■i  O 
•n  S 
c    o 

3    ■" 

C       . 

C  B 
=     S. 

X  sr 


r.H 


■3 
C 
S 
C 


3 
C 


■3 


3 
C 


54 


THE   MOUNTAIN  THAT  WAS  'GOD" 


ffpii^ 


Junction  of  North  and  South  Tahoma  Glaciers.     The  main  ice  stream  thus  formed,  seen  in  the  foreground,  feeds Tahoma 

Fork'of  the  Nisqually  river.     The  Northern  part  of  North  Tahoma  Glacier,  seen  in  the  distance 

beyond  the  wedge  of  rocks,  feeds  a  tributary  of  the  Puyallup 

recreation  ground,  well  known  to  Americans  in  every  State.  The  coming  of 
new  railways  to  Puget  Sound  and  the  development  of  new  facilities  for  reach- 
ing the  Mountain  make  this  certain.* 


*For  details  as  to  rates  for  transportation,  accommodations  and  guides,  see  Note  at  end 
of  this  chapter. 


Winthrop  Glacier  and  St.  Elmo  Pass,  wilh  Kuth  Mounlain  (llic  \\'cd!<c)  on  right  and  Sour- Dough  Mountains  on  left. 


TFll-:   NATION. \L    I'AUK    AND   HOW   To   KliACH    I'l" 


55 


I'orlion  of  Paradise  Park  and  the   i  ainnsli  Kaiitic 


l'",\ffy  slt'p  to- 
wn I'll  iii;ikiii'_:  the 
I'ai'k  iiiiiiT  ;iiM't's- 
sil)l('  is  a  piiljlit- 
bcin'fit.     Kxpci'- 

iniccil  1  l',l  \  rlcl'S 
a  II  I  I        Ml  I)  II  M  I  ;|  i  II 

(•  I  i  III  li  f  r  s  w  li  (• 
li  ;i  \  f  visiti'd  il 
unite  ill  dcclariiiL;' 

its       scclirry        nil 

('  i|  n  a  1  I'd  ill  t  In- 
rnited  States  a  ml 
Ullsii|-pass<Ml  ;iiiy- 
w  li  ('  V  ('  ill  I  li  (■ 
Wdi'Id. 

r  n  t  i  1  recent 
y Cell's  i  t  \v  a  s 
known  only  hy 
the  liardy  f  e  \v 
wlio      deliiilit      in 

doin^ii  ditticult  things,  lint  that  day  lias  passed.  'I'lie  \aliie  id'  tlie  I'iirk  tu  the 
whole  American  people  is  coming  more  and  inoi-c  to  l)e  appreciated.  Itoili  hy 
them  and  hy  their  official  representatives.  Whih-  ('oiifrress  lias  ih'all  less 
liberall\-    witli    this    than    with    the    uthei-    ei-,.;ii     .\;ii  ion.d    l';irks.    what    it    has 

appro|>riat I'd    has 
heeli      well      s|)enl 

in  liiiildiiiiyr  an  in- 
V  ,1 1  II  a  I)  1  e  road. 
This  is  a  eoiit  inn- 
atioM  of  the  well- 
mnde  highway 
111  a  i  n  1  a  i  n  ed  hy 
Pierce  County 
t'r II  III  T a  c  oiii  a  . 
wli  i  eh  passes 
til  roll  eh  a  de- 
li'j-li  1  t'l  1 1  country 
of  partly  wooded 
prairies  and  up 
the  heavily  for- 
ested slopes  to 
Ihe  edge  of  the 
Forest  Reserve. 
These    roads 

Eastern  end  of  the  Tatoosh  Range.  liaVC    pUt    it    With- 


56 


THE  MOUNTAIN   THAT  WAS  'GOD' 


in  the  power  of 
automobilists 
from  all  parts  of 
the  Coast  to  reach 
the  grandest  of 
American  moun- 
tains and  the 
largest  glaciers  in 
the  United  States 
south  of  Alaska. 
They  connect,  at 
Tacoma,  with  ex- 
cellent  roads 
from  Seattle  and 
other  cities  on 
the  Sound,  as 
well  as  from 
Portland  and 
points  farther 
south.  The 
travel  from  these 
cities  has  already 
justified  the  con- 
struction of  the 
roads,  and  is  in- 
creasing every 
year.  Even  from 
California  many 
automobile  par- 
ties    visit     the     'ioL: 

Mountain. 

Persons    who 
come  by  rail  may,  as  I  have  said. 


Ice  Bridge,  Stevens  Glacier 


choose  between  the  train  service  of  the  Tacoma 

Eastern  Railway 
and  a  trip  by  au- 
tomobile. For 
those  who  do  not 
come  in  their  own 
cars,  a  line  of 
automobile  stages 
from  Tacoma  has 
been  established, 
giving  regular 
"  '  and    comfortable 

Tug  of  War  between  teams  picked  from  the  feminine  contingent  of  the  Mountaineers.  "^  '  ct  II  Sp  O  r  Id  I 


n 


a. 


O 


TIIK    NATIOXAI,    I'AUK    AXI)    HOW    TO   IJKAf'H    IT 


59 


Reese's  Camp,  which  his  piittons  ha\  c  poetically  called  "Camp  of  the  Clouds."     A  tent  hotel  on  a  ridfte  in  Paradise  Park, 

overlooking  Nisgually  Glacier.     This  is  the  usual  starting;  point  of  parlies  for  the 

Stinimit  o\er  the  Soulh-sidc  route,  \  ia  Gihra'tar. 


tlail\'  lo  Loiigiiiirc  Spriiii;.s.  jiiid  offcrini:'  niic  of  llic  most  ciijux  jihK'  se-L-nie  trips 
to  be  had  anywlicM-c. 

Tile  most    iiiipdi'taiit    iii(i\'i'iiii'iit    tdwai'il   iiiakiiiL;   the   .Muiiiil;i  in   hcitci'   Uimwii 
and    inoiT    at'ccssihlc    lias   just    hccii    inauLiiiralcd.    witli    ^ood    ixMinisc    nl'   suc- 
cess.    It    is    pf(M)()S('d    to 


extend  the  new  govern- 
ment road.  How  reaching 
Paradise  Park,  to  tlie 
other  "parks"  on  all  sides 
of  the  peak.  The  under- 
taking is  of  such  im])()rt- 
ance  that  it  will  doubtless 
receive  prompt  approval 
and  proper  support  from 
Congress. 

Congressional  action  foi- 
the  openiiii:  of  this  great 
alpine  area  to  public  use 
began  in  1899.  A  tract 
•Mizhti'en  miles  square,  to 
be  known  as  "Ranier 
National  Park."  *  was 
w  i  t  hd  I'a  \v  n    f  i"o  m    t  h  e 


Climbing  Paradise  Glacier. 


*  For  some  years.  Congress  and  the  Interior  Department  speUed  it  "Ranier"!  A  weU- 
known  Congressman  from  Seattle  put  them  straight,  and  it  lias  since  been  officially  "Rainier 
National  Park." 


t 


3 

z 

c 

C 

s 

c 
•a 


o 
o 


THIO   XATIONAI,    I'AKK    AM)    HOW      To    KKACII    IT 


61 


L>,1   Ki.ilni)    ncl'rs    ul'    lllr 

Kiu-i'sl     Ucsci-\i'.    |irc 

\i(iusly  d'cjil  I'd.     'rill' 

,'il'i';i     llius     set     ;ii>;irl 

fill'    till'    rllJi'X  llirlll    III 

till'      pi'iiplr      w.'is     ;il- 

I'raily    know  11    tn    fii- 

thnsiasts  .iml  i'\|>li>r- 

cl's     ,'is      (ilir      of      the 

world's      Lit'r.'i!      wiiii- 

di'l'l  ,1  tids.       Ill      iMil 

•laiiu's      Ii(»iiL:iiiii'i'.     ;i 

prospcclui-.   Ii.id   liiiill 

,'i     ti'.'iil      t'l'itiii      ^'l■llll 

o\vv    Maslii'll     iiiiiuii 

tain  and   up  llu'   Nis 

(piall.v    I'ivri'    In    iM'ar 

Pi'airie.     Tliis  lir  rx- 

t(Midod  in  18S4  to  lln' 

spot    now    known    as 

Lon^'  ni  i  re     SpritiLis. 

atnl      tllrilci'      ll|i      tllr 

Xis(iually    ami     I'ai'a- 

disc  rivci's  lo  tiu'  I'c- 

gionnow  ralli'd   i*ai'a- 

dise    I*at'k.      Part     of 

this  ti'ail    was  widrii- 

I'll  lalrr  iiil  o  a  wa^on 

road,  used  for  many 

years  by  persons  travelinu'  to  the  Paradise  connti-y.  oi'  seeking  licallh  at  the 

I'rmark'ahli'  iiiiiu'i'a!  spi'itiLis  on  tlir  trai-t   wliirli   ihr   Longniii'cs  anpiii'ril   I'voin 

the  government  before  tlic  establishment  of  the  Forest  TJesei've. 


Sluiskiii  Falls,  150  Feet,  jusl  below  Paradise  Glacier 


Looking  across  Winthrop  Glacier  from  Avalanche  Camp,  on  the  East  side  ol  Carbon  Glacier,  to  Steamboat  Prow 
(the  Wedge)  and  St.  Elmo  Pass.      Elevation  of  Camera,  about  S,50()  feet. 


62 


THE  MOUNTAIN  THAT  WAS  'GOD' 


The  Longmire  road,  rough  as  it 
was.  long  remained  the  best  route  to 
the  Mountain,  but  in  1903  the  late 
Francis  W.  Cushman,  representative 
from  this  State,  persuaded  Congress 
to  authorize  the  survey  and  construc- 
tion of  a  better  one.  AYork  was  not 
begun.  hoAvever.  until  ]906.  The 
yearly  appropriations  have  been 
small,  and  total  only  $183,000  to  the 
end  of  1909. 

The  road,  as  now  open  to  Paradise 
valley,  is  a  monument  to  the  en- 
gineering skill  of  Mr.  Eugene  Rick- 
secker.  United  States  Assistant  Engi- 
neer, in  local  charge  of  the  work.  Over 
its  even  floor  yon  go  from  the  west 
boundary  of  the  Forest  Reserve  up 
the  north  bank  of  the  Nisqually  river, 
as  far  as  the  foot  of  its  glacier. 
Crossing  on  the  bridge  here,  you 
climb  up  and  up,  around  the  face  of 
a  bluff  known  as  Gap  Point,  where  a 
step  over  the  retaining  wall  would 
mean  a  sheer  drop  of  a  thousand  feet 
into  the  river  below.  Thus  you  wind 
over  to  the  Paradise  river  and  up 
through  its  canyon  to  the  broad  and 
beautiful  valley  of  the  same  name 
above,  until  you  reach  Camp  of  the 
Clouds  and  its  picturesque  tent  hotel. 
The  road  has  brought  you  a  zig-zag 
journey  of  twenty-four  miles  to  cover 
an  air-line  distance  of  twelve  and  a 
gain  in  elevation  of  3,800  feet.  It  is 
probably  unique  in  its  grades.  It  has 
no  descents.  Almost  everywhere  it 
is  a  gentle  climb.  Below  Longmire 
Springs  the  maximum  grade  is  2.5 
per  cent.,  and  the  average,  1.6  per  cent.  Beyond,  the  grade  is  steeper,  but 
nowhere  more  than  4  per  cent. 

The  alignment  and  grades  originally  planned  have  been  followed,  but  only 
one  stretch,  a  mile  and  a  (piarter.  has  yet  been  widened  to  the  standard  width 
of  eighteen  feet.  Lacking  money  for  a  broader  road,  the  engineers  built  the 
rest  of  it  twelve  feet  wide.     They  wisely  believed  that  early  opening  of  the 


:.-"^->>:*^?^Ss?-^-^_o 


Fairy  Falls  in  Goat  Lick  Basin.     This  series  of  waterfalls 
has. a  drop  of  several  hundred  feet. 


THE  NATIONAL   I'\I;K'    WI)   II()\V   TO   REACH  IT 


63 


I'diitr  Idi*  vehicles  to 
l',ii;iilist'.  rvcii  though 
tlir  r(i;i(l  III'  less  lllilll 
st;iiHl;ii'tl  wiiltli,  wduld 
serve  Ihe  puhlic  !>> 
making'  the  I'.ii-k  hel- 
ter  kii(»\vii.  ;iii(l  thus 
arouse  iuteresl  in  iii;i  k- 
iii'.;'  it  si  ill  more  .u-ees- 
sihle.  It  will  i'e(|uife 
about  $60,000  to  eoiii- 
plete  the  roacl to Stand- 
ard width,  and  make 
it  t  liofoiiL;hly  seeui'e. 

The  next  step  in 
o|ienini:'  iho  National 
r.-ii'k  to  ])nlilie  use 
should  he  the  cii'i'vinL; 
out  of  Mr.  R  i  e  k  - 
seeker's  line  plan  for  a 
road  around  the  ^Foun- 
tain.  His  new  map  of 
the  Parle,  printed  at 
the  end  (lit  his  vohune. 
sluiws  the  i-onte  pro- 
posed. Leavinu'  the 
present  I'n.-id  neai- 
Chi-istine  Falls,  helow 
the  Xis(pially  glacier. 
he  woidd  dniihle  hack 
over  the  hills  to  Indian  cnPMiKhi.  ]:«•:<.  by  s.  c.  .-^muh 

HI  I  ,  •  (Checkerboard  Crevasses  on  lower  Cowlitz  Glacier,  with  Basalt  Cliffs  and  Cowlitz 

e  n  I  \    s       1 1  n  II  t  1  n  <i'  ,.   ,    .  .  i  ■  ,    i-  i        •    i 

^  Park  above,  and  Little   I  ahonia  in  distance. 

rrfiinnd.    theiiee    drop- 

piim  into  the  canyon  of  Tahonia  Fork,  clind)in^  ii|)  to  St.  Andrew  "s  I'ark,  and 
so  worUint:'  round  to  the  IMowich  frlaeiers.  Spray  Falls  and  the  u;i-eat  "parks" 
of  the  north  side.  The  snout  of  each  glacier  would  he  reache(|  in  turn,  and 
the  luLih  pleateans  which  the  ulaciers  have  left  would  he  visitecl. 

Crossing  ^loraine  I'ark  and  Winthro])  glacier's  old  hed.  the  i-oad  would 
ascend  to  Gi'and  Pai-k  and  the  Soui*  -  T~)oui:li  country  —  a  region  nnsurpassecl 
anywhere  on  the  ]\I(nintain  for  the  hreadth  and  grandeur  of  its  views.  ]More 
descents,  climbs  and  detoui-s  would  bring  it  to  the  foot  of  White  glacier,  and 
thence  through  Summer  Land  and  Cowlitz  Park,  and  westward  to  a  junction 
with  the  existing  road  in  Paradise  Park.  Its  elevation  would  range  between 
four  and  seven  thousand  feet  above  the  sea.  The  route,  as  indicated  on  the 
map,  suggests  very  i)lainly  the  engineering  feats  involved  in  hani^ino-  roads  on 
these  steep  and  deeply-carved  slopes. 


.^:V^^^^ 


66 


THE   MOUNTAIN   THAT  WAS  -GOD" 


y*!*^,^  • 


n#- 


Mountain  Climbers  on  St.  Elmo  Pass.  North  side  of  the  Wedge, 
from  upper  side  of  the  Pass.     Elevation,  9,000  feet. 


View  taken 


Between  eighty  and 
a  hundred  miles  of 
construction  work 
would  be  required, 
costing  approximate- 
ly $10,000  a  mile. 
Including  the  comple- 
tion of  the  present 
road  to  s  t  a  n  d  a  r  d 
width.  Congres's  will 
thus  have  to  provide 
a  round  million  if  it 
wishes  to  develop  the 
full  value  of  this  vast 
wonderland.  I  shall 
iKtt  use  any  of  my 
little  space  in  trying 
to  prove  that  this 
expenditure  is  worth 
while.  Every  Con- 
gressman who  makes 
the  trip  over  the  new 
r  o  a  d  already  built 
will  know  it,  and 
know  why.  Such  a 
r  o  a  d  would  justify 
the  Congress  which 
authorizes  it,  immor- 
talize the  engineers 
who  build  it,  and 
lionor  the  nation  that 
owns  it. 


NOTE. 

Rates,  Accommodations,  Guides,  Etc.— The  fare  via  the  Tacoma  Eastern  Railway 
from  Tacoma  to  the  Mountain  is  $6  for  the  round  trip,  including  the  automobile-stage 
ride  over  the  new  government  road  from  Ashford  to  Longmire's  and  return.  Tickets 
are  good  for  the  season.  Parties  of  ten  or  more,  traveling  on  one  ticket,  $5  per  capita. 
A  week-end  ticket,  Saturday  to  Monday,  is  sold  at  $5. 

Automobile  stages  sealing  ten  passengers  leave  the  office  of  the  De  Lape  Tours 
Company,  110  South  Ninth  street,  Tacoma.  for  the  Mountain  every  morning  during  the 
summer  at  7:30,  8  and  8:30  o'clock,  reaching  Longmire's  in  SV^  hours.  Distance,  70 
miles.  Returning,  they  leave  Longmire's  at  3:30,  making  the  trip  down  in  4^^  hours. 
The  route  is  over  the  new  Pierce  County  road  above  the  Nisqually  canyon  to  Ashford 
and  over  the  government  road  through  the  National  Park.  Fare  for  the  round  trip,  $7. 
Reservations  should  be  made  in  advance. 

Automobiles  are  permitted  to  enter  or  leave  the  National  Park  only  between  the 
hours  of  8  a.  m.  and  6  p.  m.  An  automobile  permit  must  be  purchased  at  the  keeper's 
lodge,  at  the  western  boundary  of  the  Park.     This  costs  $5,  and  is  good  for  the  season, 


THE  NA'|-I().\.\I.    I'AKK    AND   IfOW  TO  REACH   IT 


67 


provided  lliiii  its  owner  iiiid  liis  machine  obst-rve  the  rules.  The  si)eed  limit  is  twelve 
miles  i)i'r  hour,  with  six  milts  on  curves.  Public  safety  demands  that  this  rule  be 
strictly  enforced — -and  it  is.  I'ersons  violaliiiK  it  have  the  unpleasant  exi>erience  of 
losing  their  iHimiis  nml  findinf?  iheir  cars  chained  up. 

The  .\;Liii)ii;il  i';iiU  Inn.  I.oiiiiinire  Springs,  i)rovides  excellent  rooms  and  a  good 
table,  hi  adilitioii  to  the  rooms  in  the  Inn,  a  large  number  of  well-furnished  and  com- 
fortable tents  are  provided  near  by.  The  rates  range  from  $2.50  to  $3.75  a  day, 
American   iihm. 

At  the  old  I.oiigmire  hotel,  the  rates  are  $2  to  $:i.r>()  for  ro(jm  and  board. 

The  niiiieial  springs  are  of  great  variety,  and  are  highly  recommended  lor  their 
medicinal  virtues.  Within  an  area  of  several  acres,  there  are  a  score  of  these  springs, 
varying  from  the  normal  temix-rature  of  a  mountain  stream  almost  to  blond  heat.  Woll- 
api)ointed  bath  houses  are  maintained.     Fee,  including  attendance,  $1. 

The  cost  of  getting  fioin  Loui^iuire  S|)iiiigs  to  Paradise  Park  or  linliau  ibiiry's  is 
moderate.  Many  jjrefer  to  mai\e  these  trii)S  on  foot.  Daily  i)arties,  with  exjjerienced 
guides,  are  made  up  sevi-ral  limes  a  day  for  the  trails  to  each  of  these  great  "parks." 
Sure-footed  horses  are  provided  for  those  who  wish  to  ride,  at  $1.50  for  the  round  trip. 

.-V  line  of  stages  carries  jjassengers  from  T^ongmire's  over  the  government  road  to 
Xisqually  glacier,  Narada  Falls  and  Camp  of  the  Clouds,  in  Paradise  Park.  The  charge 
for  the  trip  to  Narada  and  return  is  $2;  to  Paradise  Park  and  return,  $3. 

At  Reese's  Camp,  in  Paradise  Park,  and  at  the  similar  tent  hotel  in  Indian  Henry's, 
the  charge  for  meals,  with  a  tent  for  sleei)ing,  is  $2.50  per  day. 

Guides  may  be  had  at  the  National  Park  Inn  or  at  either  of  the  "camps"  for  many 
interesting  trips  over  the  motiiiiaiii  trails.  Horses  also  are  furnished.  The  charge  varies 
with  the  number  in  a  party. 

For  those  who  wish  to  make  the  ascent  over  the  Gibraltar  trail,  trustworthy  guides 
may  be  enga.ged  at  the  National  Park  Inn  or  at  Reese's  Camp.  Arrangements  should 
be  made  several  days  in  advance.  The  cost  of  such  a  trip  depends  ui)on  the  number  in 
a  party.  The  guides  make  an  initial  charge  of  $25  for  the  first  member  of  the  party, 
and  $5  each  for  the  others.  They  will  furnish  alpenstocks,  ropes,  and  calks  for  the  shoes 
of  motintain  climbers  at  a  reasonable  charge.  Each  person  should  carry  with  him  a 
blanket  or  extra  coat  and  a  small  atiiount  of  food,  for  use  in  the  event  of  being  on  the 
summit  over  night.  Still  heavier  clothing  will  be  required  if  the  night  is  to  be  spent  at 
Camp  Mtiir. 

Ascents  from  othei'  points  ihaii  ileese's  are  usually  made  in  siiecial  parties,  under 
the  guidance  of  persons  familiar  with  the  routes.  AH  persons  are  warned  not  to  attempt 
an  ascent  unless  accompanied  by  experienced  guides.  Lives  have  been  lost  through 
neglect  of  this  precaution. 

For  persons  visiting  the  North  Side,  the  Northern  Pacific  rate  from  Tacoma  to 
Fairfax  is  .$1.2."):  and  from  Seattle  to  Fairfax,  with  change  of  cars  at  Puyallu|i.  $1.75. 
Guides  and  horses  may  be  engaged  at  Fairfax  for  the  Spray  Park  trail. 


Passing  a  liig  Crevasse  on   Interglacier.     Sour- Dough  Mountains  on  the  right,  with   Grand  Park  heyond. 
Ruth  Mountain  (the  Wedge)  and  St.  Elmo  Pass  on  left,  with  Glacier  Basin  in  depression. 


The  Mountaineers  on  W  inthrop  Glacier. 
III. 

THE  s;tory  of  thp:  MorxTAix 

I  asked  myself.  How  was  this  colossal  work  performed?  Who  chiseled  these  mighty 
and  picturesque  masses  out  of  a  mere  protuberance  of  earth?  And  the  answer  was  at 
hand.  Ever  young,  ever  mighty,  wnth  the  vigor  of  a  thousand  w-orlds  still  within  him, 
the  real  sculptor  was  even  then  climbing  up  the  eastern  sky.  It  was  he  who  planted 
the  glaciers  on  the  mountain  slopes,  thus  giving  gravity  a  plough  to  open  out  the 
valleys;  and  it  is  he  who,  acting  through  the  ages,  will  finally  lay  low  these  mighty 
monuments,  *  *  *  so  that  the  people  of  an  older  earth  may  see  mould  spread  and 
corn  wave  over  the  hidden  rocks  which  at  this  moment  bear  the  weight  of  the  Jungfrau. 
• — John  Tyndall:   "Hours  of  Exercise  in  the  Alps." 

The  life  of  a  glacier  is  one  eternal  grind. — .John  .Muir. 

Ol'R  stately  Mountain,  in  its  yonth.  was  as  eomely  and  symmetrical  a  cone 
as  ever  graced  the  galaxy  of  volcanic  peaks.    To-day.  while  still  young 
as  compared  with  the  obelisk  crags  of  the  Alps,  it  has  already  taken 
on  the  venerable  and  deeply-scarred  physiognomy  of  a  veteran.    It  is  no  longer 
merely  an  overgrown  boy  among  the  hills,  but.  cut  and  torn  by  the  ice  of  cen- 
turies, it  is  fast  assuming  the  dignity  and  interest  of  a  patriarch  of  the  mountains. 


Crossing  Carbon  Glacier.     On  the  ice  slopes,  it  is  customary  to  divide  a  large  party  into  companies,  with  an  experienced 

alpinist  at  the  head  of  each.     The  picture  shows  the  Mountaineers  marching  in  tens. 

Note  the  Medial  Moraines  on  the  Glacier. 


i-        M 


'    '.      I 


'^ 


Nisqually  Glacier.  «ith  its  smirces  In  the  Snow  Field  of  the  Siiiiiniit.  (In  ihc  right  is  Gihrallar  Rock  and  on  the  extreme  left 
Kautz  Glacier  Ho«  s  do«  n  from  Peak  Success.  Note  the  .Medial  Moraines,  resulting  from  junction  of  Ice  Streams  above. 
These  apparently  small  lines  of  dirt  are  often  great  ridges  of  rocks,  cut  from  the  cliffs.  The  picture  also  illustrates  ho«  the 
marginal  crevasses  of  a  glacier  point  douii  sireani  from  the  center,  though  the  center  flows  faster  than  the  sides. 


•v 


v.^ 


\ 


^v 


'.,.U 


,,^.«- 

V 


.ill 


'J   =. 


^^PV:<'^ 


c 
Z 


*>-.\ 


^  \^  •H.-,_^^ 


Till':   S'l'OIiY    OF  '|-|!1-:    MorXTAlX 


71 


To      S  (I  111  ('  .       IK) 


II  t)  t 


t  h  (' 


snioolli,  yoiitliriil 
f'oiitoiirs  ol"  ;iii  ac- 
tive volcano  seem 
moro  ])oantifiil 
than  111!'  Mi'jufil 
g:raii(lciir  of  the 
Weissliorn.  'I'lir 
perfect  cone  ol 
:\rt.  St.  TTclens. 
until  I'cccntly  in 
♦Tuption.  ])l('ascs 
them  nioi'c  than 
tile  broad  dome 
of  Mt.  Adams, 
rounded  by  a 
prehistoric  ex- 
plosion, l^ut  nil) 
so  with  all.  To 
those  who  Iom- 
nature  and  the 
story  written 
upon  its  face, 
mountains  have 


Measuring  the  Ice  Fl()»  in  the  Nisguully  Glucicr.  In  l''(l.^  l'ir>f.  J.  N.  I,c  Clonic  <>( 
Berkeley,  Cal..  established  the  fact  that  this  Glacier  has  an  aserafie  How,  in  snm- 
mer,  of  16.2  inches  a  day.  The  inovenient  is  greater  in  the  center  than  on  the  sides, 
and  greater  on  the  convex  side  of  a  cnr\e  than  on  the  concave  side.  It  thus  is  a  true 
river,  though  a  slow  one.  The  measurements  are  taken  by  running  a  line  from  one 
lateral  moraine  to  the  other  with  a  surveying  instrument,  setting  stakes  at  short 
intervals,  and  ascertaining  the  advance  they  make  from  da>  to  day. 


eh  a  racter     as 

truly  as  men,  and  they  show  it  in  their  features  as  clearly. 

Nowhere  is  this  better  exemplified  than  in  the  monarch  of  the  (.'ascades. 
No  longer  the  huge  conical  pimple  which  a  volcano  erecteil  lui  the  caiiirs 
crust,  it  bears  on  its  face  the  history  of  its  own  explosion,  wliich  scattered  its 
top  far  over  the  landscape,  and  of  its  losing  battle  with  the  sun.  which,  em- 
ploying the  heaviest  of  all  tools,  is  steadily  destroying  it.  It  has  alreatly  lost 
a  tenth  of  its  height  and  a  third  of  its  bulk.  The  ice  is  cutting  deeper  and 
deeper  into  its  sides.  Upon  three  of  them,  it  has  excavated  great  amphitheaters 
which  it  is  ceaselessly  driving  back  toward  the  heart  of  the  peak.  As  if  to 
compensate  for  these  losses  of  size  and  shapeliness,  the  I\Iountain  has  become 
the  most  interesting  monument  and  presents  the  most  important  phenomena 
of  glacial  action  to  be  seen  anywhere  in  the  United  States. 

In  dimensions  alone,  however,  it  is  still  one  of  the  world's  great  peaks. 
The  Rainier  National  Park,  eighteen  miles  square.  —  as  large  as  many  counties 
in  the  East  —  has  an  elevation  along  its  western  and  lowest  boundary  averaging 
four  thousand  feet  above  sea  level.  Assuming  a  diameter  of  only  twenty  miles, 
the  area  covered  by  the  peak  exceeds  three  hundred  stpiare  miles.  Of  its  vast 
surface  upwards  of  32.500  acres,  or  about  fifty-one  square  miles,  are  covered 
by  glaciers  or  the  fields  of  perpetual  snow  Avhich  feed  them.     A  straight  line 


THE  MOUNTAIN  THAT  WAS  'GOD- 


These  views   show   the   larger  of  the  two    comparatively   modern    and    small    craters   on  the  broad  platform  left  by  the 

and  1,450  feet  from  East  to  West.     The  other,  much  smaller,  adjoins  it  so  closely  that  their  rims  touch. 

miles  from  North   Peak  (Liberty   Cap)   and   South   Peak  (Peak   Success).      At   the 

Crest."    The  volcano  having  long  been  inactive,  the  craters  are  tilled 


drawn  tlir(»ui.:li  t'n»iii  1  lie  i-iul  oi  Xortli  Taliouia  ulaeicr.  on  the  west  side,  to  the 
end  of  White  olaeier.  on  the  east,  would  be  thirteen  miles  lonu'.  The  circum- 
ference of  the  crest,  on  the  10. ()()(»  foot  contour,  is  nearly  seven  miles.  The 
twelve  primary  glaciers  vary 
in  length  from  thre(^  to  eight 
miles,  and  from  half  a  mile 
to  three  miles  in  width. 
There  are  as  many  "inter- 
glaciers."  or  snndler  ice 
streams  wliicli  gather  their 
snow  supply,  not  from  the 
neve  fields  of  the  summit,  but 
below  the  wedges  of  rock 
which  the  greater  glaciers 
have  left  standing  upon  the 
upper  slopes. 

The  geological  story  may 
be  told  in  a  few  untechnical 
words.  As  those  folds  in  the 
earth  w'hich  parallel  the 
Coast  w^ere  slowly  formed  by 
the  lateral  pressure  of  sea 
upon  land,  fractures  occuri-cd 
in  the  incline  thus  created. 
Through  the  tissures  that 
resulted  the  subterranean 
fires  thrust  molten  rock  wdiich 
formed  volcanic  craters.   The 

most    active    craters    built    up,         climbing  the  Cowlltz  CU-aver  to  Gibraltar.     This  Spine   is  one  of  the 
1  ,-  I?       1  T  great  ridges  left  by  the  glaciers.    On  the  other  side  of  it  is  a  drop 

by      eruptions      of       lava       and  of  several  thousand  feet  to  Nisgually  Clacier. 


TIIK    STOKV    OF  'nil':    .Mn|-\'I-  MX 


explosion    which  dccupitulcd    ihc    I'L-ak.      I'rol.  I'Ictt    measured  this  Oatcr.  and  found  i(  I.WM)  feet  (nun  North  lo  Soiiili. 
To)<ether   they   form  an    eminence  of  I.IHK)  feet  on  (op  of  the  Mountain,  at  a  distance  of  more  than   two 
junction  of  their  rims  is  the  Ureat  snou     hill  (on    rijiht  of  \iew)   called    "(^oluinhia's 
«ith  sno«.  but  steam  and  tiases  escape  in  places  along  their  rims. 

nslics.  ;i  uivnl  sci'ii^s  of  cotics  now  seen  on  hotli  sides  of  tin-  cordillrr;!.  lh;it 
hiiuf  iiioiiiit;iiii  syslciii  wliifli  honlcrs  llic  I'.icilic  tVoiii  I'x'liriiiL;  sf;i  to  iln- 
iStrails  of  .Mjiuc'II.'iii.  'riicoin;i-R;iiiiici-  is  oiic  ol'  llir  \\[<>yr  iiii[iort;iiil  units  in  this 
army  of  volcmic  uianls. 

I'lilikc  sonic  ol'  its  coniiiaiiioiis.  liowcNcr.  it  owes  its  hulk  loss  to  la\a  Hows 
tlian  to  the  explosive  eniptioiis  wliicli  threw  rorlii  hoinlis  and  seofiac.  Il  is 
a  mass  id'  aLiiiIomei'.-ites.  with  oidy  occasional  sti-ata  of  solid  \o|c;ini<-  ro(d<. 
This  hecoines  e\idenl  to  one  who  inspects  the  expused  sides  i)\'  any  (d'  the 
canyons,  or  i>\'  the  iii-eal  cliffs.  ( iihcaltai'  l\o(d<.  Little  'ralnnna  oi'  IJnssidl  I'eak. 
It   is  made  (dear  even  in  such  ;i   piclni'e  ,is  that   ini   pa  li'c  77  of  this  hook. 


LunchinS  in  a  Crevasse.  l.^.fXK)  feet  above  the  sea.      Fven  Little   Tahoma.  on  the  left,  is  tar  below. 


74 


THE  MOrXTAIX   THAT  WAS  -GOD" 


Ice-bound  lake  in  Cowlitz  Park,  with  top  of 
Little  Tahoma  in  distance. 

structive  power  must  have 
been  when  their  volume  was 
many  times  greater  may  be 
judged  from  the  moraines 
along  their  former  channels. 
Some  of  these  ridges  are  hun- 
dreds of  feet  in  height.  As 
you  go  to  the  ^Mountain  from 
Tacoma.  either  by  the  Tacoma 
Eastern  railway  or  the  Nis- 
qually  canyon  road,  you  find 
them  everywhere  above  the 
prairies.  ]\Iany  of  them  are 
covered  with  forests  that  must 
be  centuries  old. 

Even    now.    diminished    as 


This  looseness  of  structure 
accounts  for  the  rapidity  with 
which  the  glaciers  are  cutting 
down  the  peak.  All  of  them 
carry  an  extraordinary  amount 
of  debris,  to  be  deposited  in 
lateral  or  terminal  moraines, 
or  dropped  in  streams  which 
they  feed.  They  are  rivers  of 
rock  as  well  as  of  ice. 

That  the  glaciers  of  this  and 
every  other  mountain  in  the 
northern  hemisphere  are  rapid- 
ly receding,  and  that  they  are 
now  mere  pygmies  compared 
with  their  former  selves,  is 
well   known.    AYhat  their  de- 


-1 


Crevasses  in  Cowlitz  Glacier,  with  waterfall  dropping  from 
Cowlitz  Park,  over  Basaltic  Cliffs. 


COPYRIGHT    1907,    BY   W.   P.    ROMANS 

Spray    Park,  from   Fay    Peak,  showing   the   beautiful   region    between    ibe  Carbon   and    North   Mowich    Glaciers 


Till':   STOltV    OF  TllK    MOINTAIX 


t  lii'V  ;i  ri'.  till'  'jl.ii-ici's 
are  fast   1  i'aiis|i(>rl  iiij; 
till'  Muiitii  aiii  towani 
tlie  sea.      \Vlifi'('\cr  ;i 
lilac'icr  skirts  a   ditV. 
it  is  cutting'   iiilo   its 
side,    as    it    ('Ills    iiitd 
its    own    l)c(|    liildw. 
Fi'diM    the    ovcrliaiiii- 
iiiiT  rocks,  too.  (l('l)i'is 
I'alls     upon     the     ice 
stream.      Tlius   the 
marginal     m  o  ra  i  n  r  s 
bofjin  to  fofiii.  on  1  lir 
ice,  far  up  the  side  of 
the  peak.  As  the  gla- 
cier advances,  driven 
by  its  own  weight  ami 
tlio  resisth'ss  mass  ol' 
s  n  o  \v    a  l)o  ve.    it    is 
often    j(Mne(l    by    an- 
other   ulacicr.    hfiiiLi- 
in<:'  its  own  niaruinai 
moraines.    W'hci'c  1 1n- 
two   meet,   a   medial 
m  0  r  a  i  n  e    results.  * 
Some  medial  moraines 
are   many   feet   higli. 
Trees      ai"("      fouml 
v'rowin.i:'  on  Iheni.   In 
Switzerland    houses 
are  built  upon  them. 
Often      the     debris 
which  they  transport, 
as     the     ice     carries 
them     t'oi-ward.     in- 
cludes  rocks    as    ])i<:' 
as  a  ship. 


"^^^^T.^  ^k^V  ^^r 


^-^/'^A 


v.- 


.^v 


jt 


.{■ 


Mazamas  rounding  Gibraltar— a  reminiscence  of  the  ascent  by  the  famous   Portland 
Club  in  1905.     The  precipice  rises  more  than  I00()  feet  abii\  e  the  trail. 


A     glacier's     tlmv 

varies  from  a  hun<li-ed  to  a  thousand  ieet  or  more  a  year,  depending  upon  its 
volume,  its  width,  and  the  slope  of  its  bed.  As  the  decades  pass, 
its  level  is  greatly  lowered  by  the  melting  of  the  ice.  More  and  moi-e,  earth 
and  rocks  accumulate  upon  the  surface,  as  it  travels  onward,  and  are  scattered 
over  it  ])\-  the  i-ains  and  melting  snow.     At  last,  in  its  old  age.  when  far  down 


*   See  iUustrations  on  pp.   68  and  69. 


78 


THE  MOUXTAIX  THAT  WAS  -GOD" 


its  eanj'on,  the  glacier  is  completely  hidden,  save  where  crevasses  reveal  the 
ice.  Only  at  its  snout,  where  it  breaks  off,  as  a  rule,  in  a  high  wall  of  ice,  do 
we  realize  how  huge  a  volume  and  weight  it  must  have,  far  above  toward  its 
sources,  or  why  so  many  of  the  crevasses  on  the  upper  ice  fields  seem  almost 
bottomless. 

These  hints  of  the  almost  inconceivable  mass  of  a  glacier,  w4th  its  millions 
of  millions  of  tons,  suggest  how  much  of  the  ^Mountain  has  already  been 
whittled  and  planed  away.  But  here  we  may  do  better  than  speculate.  The 
original  surface  of  the  peak  is  clearly  indicated  by  the  tops  of  the  great  rocks 
which  have  survived  the  glacial  sculpturing.  They  are  from  one  to  two 
thousand  feet  high.  The  best  known  are  Gibraltar  and  the  ridges  that  stretch 
downward  from  it.  Cowlitz  Cleaver  and  Cathedral  Rocks,  making  a  great 
inverted  V.  E  a  s  t  - 
ward  of  this,  another 
V,  with  its  apex  to- 
ward the  summit,  is 
called  Little  Tahoma ; 
and  beyond,  still  an- 
other. Steamboat 
Prow,  forming  the 
tipof  "The  Wedge." 

Spines  of  rock  like 
these  are  found  on  all 
sides  of  the  peak. 
They  help  us  to  esti- 
mate its  greater  cir- 
cumference and  bulk, 
before  the  glaciers 
had  chiseled  so  dee])- 
ly  into  it. 

l>ut  they  do  even 
nioi'e.  AVherever  lava 
flows  occurred  in  the 
building  of  th(  ""^loun- 
tain,  stratn  lormed: 
and  sn  c  h  stratifi  •  i- 
tion  is  clearly  T'^'ju  at 
Avide  intervals  on  the 
sides  of  the  great 
rocks  just  mentioned. 
Its  incline,  of  course, 
is  that  of  the  former 
surface.  The  strata 
point    upward  —  not  ..^      ..  .        ^  ^. .  .  .... 

'■  Climbing  the     Chute     on  west  side  of  Gibraltar.      I  his  is  so  steep  that  the  guides 

toward    the    summit  cut  steps  in  the  ice. 


THE   STORY   OF    IIIK    MorXTAI.V 


79 


which  we  sec.  hut 
far  above  it.  For 
this  reason  tlie 
Lreolo<rists  avIio 
have  examined 
the  riddles  most 
eioselyare  agreed 

that   the  |ic;il<  li;is 

lost  nearly  two 
thousand  ft-ct  of 
its  h  (■  i  l;  li  I  .  It 
blew  its  own 
head  oft"! 

Such  exjilosive 
e  r  u  pi  ions  are 
amoni;'  the  woi-st 
vices  ot'  volcan- 
oes. Every  vis- 
itor to  Naples  re- 
m  em  b  ers  how 
plainly  the  land- 
scape north  of 
Vesuvin.s  tells  of 
a  prehistoric  de- 
capitation. whi(di 
left  oidy  a  low. 
broad  platform, 
on  the  south  i-im 
of  which  the  little 
Vesuvius  t  h  a  t 
many  of  us  have 
e  limbed  was 
formed  hy  hitei- 
eruptions.     Siiui- 


Looking  from  lop  o(  Gibraltar  over  the  Snow-lields  to  the  Summit.  Elevation  of  camera. 
12, .WO  feet.  In  distance  is  seen  the  rim  of  the  Crater.  The  route  to  this  is  a  steady 
climb,  with  2. (KM)  feet  of  ascent  in  one  mile  ot  distance.  Many  detonrs  have  to  be 
made  to  avoid  crevasses.  Note  the  big  crevasse  stretching  away  on  right — a 
"  fJcrgschrund,"  as  the  Swiss  call  a  break  where  one  side  falls  far  below  the  other. 
The  stratification  on  its  side  shows  in  each  layer  a  year's  sno«.  packed  into  ice. 


larl>-.    hei"e    at 

home,  Mt.  Adams  and  Mt.  Baker  are  truncated  cones,  while,  on  llie  other  hainl, 

St,  Helens  and  Hood  are  still  symmetrical. 

Like  Vesuvius,  too,  Rainier-Taconia  has  hnilt  upon  the  j)latcau  left  when 
it  lost  its'  head.  Peak  Success,  overlooking:  Indian  Ilem-y's.  and  Liberty  Cap. 
the  northern  elevation,  seen  from  Seattle  and  'racoma.  are  nearly  thrcf  miles 
apart  on  the  west  side  of  the  broad  suunnit.  These  arc  parts  of  the  rim  of 
the  old  crater.  East  of  the  line  uniting  them,  and  about  two  miles  from  each, 
the  volcano  built  up  an  elevation  now  known  as  Crater  Peak,  coniprisint":  two 
small  adjacent  craters.  These  burnt-out  craters  are  now  filled  with  snow,  and 
where  the  rims  touch,  a  big  snow-hill  rises  —  the  strange  creature  of  eddying 


^^;'^'^ 


IS'^'  ^^■^■^K.iMJt  )^5 


■3 
-3 


-    o 
Z  O 


—  a 

-  u 


c 


THE  STORY   OF  Till;    Mol  XIAIX 


81 


North  I'cak,  or  "Liberty  Cap,"  so  called  from  Its  resemblance  to  the  Bonnet  Kougc  of  the  French   Kcvolutionists. 

■elevation,  about  14,000  feet.     View  taken  from  the  side  of  Crater  E'eak,  the  easternmost  and  highest 

of  the   three  peaks   which    crown  the  Sunimil.      Distance,  more  than  two  miles. 


winds    that    sweep    up    IIii-ouliIi    the    Lll'eat     tluilie    cut     hy     \i>Ir;illie    eXplosiiill     ;ill(l 

glacial  aetiiiii  in  the  west  sich'  of  the  peak.  * 

This  mound  of  snow  is  the  present  actual  top.  Believing  it  the  iiighest 
point  in  the  I'nited  States  south  of  Alaska,  tlie  ali)inists  soiiu-  years  ago  named 
it  "Columbia  "s  ('rest."  The  name  has  stuck,  in  spite  it\'  tlie  faet  that  the 
govornnient  geographers  liave  adopted,  for  llie  Dictionary  of  .Mtitudes.  tlie 
height  found  hy  Prof.  MeAdie,  14,363  feet,  thus  ranking  the  Mountain  second 
to  Mt.  Whitney,  in  California  (14.522  feet). 

There  are  those,  however,  who  refuse  to  he  disabused  dj'  their  belief  that 
the  height  of  14.r)29  feet,  found  hy  many  scientific  investigators  as  a  result  of 
careful  hai'ometric  ohsei-vat ions,  is  the  true  altitude.  It  is  pi-ohahle  that 
scientists  will  not  be  content  until  the  question  sliall  have  been  settled  by  a 
competent  and  impartial  commission.  For  the  present,  however,  I  give  the 
official  lignres.  .\  few  feet  of  height  sigidfy  nothiuL:.  No  C'aliforida  pealc. 
hidden  awa\-  behind  the  Sierra,  can  vie  in  majesty  with  the  .Mountain 
that  rises  in  stately-  gi-andeur  from  the  shores  of  Puiret  Siuind. 

The  wide  area  which  the  ^Tountaiu  thrusts  up  into  ihe  sk_\-  is  ;i  highly 
efficient  coinbMisei-  >>{'  moisture.  Xejii-  Id  the  Pacific  as  it  is.  it  collects  several 
hundred  feet  of  snow  each  year  from  the  warm  Chinooks.  ;ind  on  all  sides  this 
mass  presses  down,  to  feed  the  ])rimary  glaciers  of  the  ui>|>ei-  slopes.  Starting 
from   Paradise,   these   in    order   are:   Cowlitz   and    iniii-ah.im    glaciers;   "White 


*   See  illustratii>ii  on  page  28,  which  .'^how.s  not  only  the  deep  cleft  on  the  west  side,  but 
also  the  three  peaks  on  the  summit. 


82 


THE  MOUNTAIN  THAT  WAS  "GOD" 


glacier,  largest  of  all ;  Winthrop  glacier,  named  iu  honor  of  Theodore  Winthrop, 
in  whose  delightful  romance  of  travel.  "The  Canoe  and  the  Saddle,"  the  ancient 
Indian  name  "Tacoma"  was  first  printed;  Carbon,  North  and  South  ^lowich. 
Puyallup,  North  and  South  Tahoma,  Kautz  and  Nisqually  glaciers. 

The  most  important  secondary  glaciers,  or  "interglaciers, "  rising  below 
the  rock  wedges,  are  Interglacier,  Paradise,  Stevens,  Frying-Pan  and  Van 
Trump. 

There  has  been  considerable  uncertainty  as  to  some  of  these  names,  chiefly 
due  to  a  recent  government  map.  For  instance,  in  that  publication.  White 
glacier,  most  properly  so  called  because  it  feeds  the  White  river,  was  named 
Emmons  glacier,  after  S.  F.  Emmons,  a  geologist  who  made  one  of  the  first 
explorations  of  the  peak.  North  and  South  ]\Iowich  glaciers,  feeding  streams 
similarly  named,  were  miscalled  Willis  and  Edmunds  glaciers,  after  Bailey 
Willis,  geologist,  and  George  F.  Edmunds,  late  United  States  senator,  who 
visited  the  Mountain  many  years  ago.  South  Tahoma  glacier  was  renamed 
Wilson  glacier,  for  A.  D.  Wilson.  Emmons's  companion  in  exploration.  Finally, 
the  name  of  General  Hazard  Stevens,  who  made  the  first  ascent  of  the  peak  in 
1870,  was  misplaced,  being  given  to  the  west  branch  of  the  Nisqually,  whereas 
Stevens  glacier  is  the  well-defined  interglacier  adjoining  the  Paradise  on 
the  east. 

Such  errors  in  a  government  document  are  the  more  inexcusable  because 
their  author  ignored  names  adopted  in  the  original  publications  of  the  Geolog- 
ical Survey.  The  new  map  prepared  by  i\Ir.  Ricksecker,  and  printed  herewith, 
returns  to  the  older  and  better  usage.  Unless  good  reason  can  be  shown  for 
departing  from  it.  his  careful  compilation  .should  be  accepted  as  authoritative. 


The  Mountaineers  crossing  a  precipitous  slope  on  White  Glacier.     Little  Tahoma  in  distance. 


THE   STOUV   OP  THK   MOTWTMX 


83 


Hydro-clcctric  plant  ill  RIcctroii,  on  the  Fuyallup  ri\cr.  producinit  2K,U0U  h.  p. 


A  word  about  the  iiidusti'ial  value  of  the  Mountain  may  not  he  without 
interest  in  this  day  of  electricity.  It  is  well  known  that,  within  a  radius  of 
sixty  miles  of  the  lu;id  of  Puget  Sound,  more  water  descends  from  hi<rh  levels 
to  the  sea  than  in  any  oilier  similar  area  in  the  United  States.  The  greater 
part  of  this  is  collected  <»ti  the  largest  peak.  Hydraulic  engineers  have  esti- 
mated, on  investigation,  an  average  annual  precipitation,  for  the  summit  and 
upper  slopes,  of  at  least  180  inches,  or  four  times  the  rainfall  in  Taeoma  or 
Seattle.  The  melting  snows  feed  the  White.  Puyallup  and  Nisciually  rivers, 
large  streams  flowing  into  the  Sound,  and  the  Cowlitz,  an  important  tributary 
of  the  Columbia.  The  minimum  flow  of  these  streams  is  computed  at  more 
than  1200  second  feet,  while  their  average  flow  is  nearly  twice  that  total. 

The  utilization  of  this  large  water  supply  on  the  steep  mountain  slopes 
began  in  1904  with  the  erection  of  the  Electron  plant  of  the  Puget  Sound 
Power  Company.  For  this  llie  water  is  diverted  from  the  Puyallu|»  i-iver  ten 
miles  from  the  end  of  its  glacier,  and  1750  feet  above  sea  level,  and  carried 
ten  miles  more  in  an  open  flume  to  a  reservoir,  from  which  four  steel  penstocks, 
each  four  feet  in  diameter,  carry  it  to  the  power  house  900  feet  below.  The 
plant  generates  28.000  h.  p..  whieli  is  conveyed  to  Taeoma,  twenty-five  miles 
distant,  at  a  pressure  of  60,000  volts,  and  there  is  distributed  for  the  operation 
of  street  railways,  lights  and  factories  in  that  city  and  Seattle. 

A  more  important  development  is  in  progress  on  the  larger  White  river 
near  Buckley,  where  the  Pacific  Coast  Power  Company  is  diverting  the  water 
by  a  dam  and  eight-mile  canal  to  Lake  Tapps,  elevation  540  feet  above  tide. 
From  this  great  reservoir  it  will  be  taken  through  a  tunnel  and  pipe  line  to 
the  generating  plant  at  D<Mringer.  elevation  65  feet.  The  100.000  h.  p.  produced 
here  will  be  cari-ied  lifteeu  mih-s  to  Taeoma.  for  sale  to  manufacturers  in  the 
Puget  Sound  cities. 

Both  these  plants  ;ire  enterprises  of  Stone  &  Webster,  of  Boston.     A  eom- 


84 


THE  MOUNTAIN   THAT   WAS  -GOD" 


petitive  plant  is  now  under 
construction  by  the  city  of 
Tacoma.  utilizing  the  third 
of  the  rivers  emptying  into 
the  Sound.  The  Nisqually 
is  dammed  above  its  re- 
markable canyon,  at  an  ele- 
vation of  970  feet,  where  its 
minimum  flow  is  300  second 
feet.  The  water  will  be  car- 
ried through  a  10.000-foot 
tunnel  and  over  a  bridge  to 
a  reservoir  at  La  Grande, 
from    which    the   penstocks 


Building  Tacoma's 
Electric  Power 
Plant  on  the  Nis- 
qually  Canyon. 
Upper  view  shows 
site  of  retention 
dam,   abo\'e    tunnel; 


middle  view,  end  of 
tunnel,  where  pipe- 
line will  cross  the 
canyon  on  a  bridge: 
lower  view,  site  of 
the  generating 
plant. 


will  carry  it  down  the  side 
of  the  canyon  to  the  40.000 
h.  p.  generating  plant  on 
the  river  below.  The  city 
expects  to  be  able  to  pro- 
duce power  for  its  own  ^^se. 
Avith  a  considerable  margin 
for  sale,  at  a  cost  at  least  as 
l(iw  as  can  be  attained  any- 
where in  the  United  States. 
Its  success  will  be  largely 
due  to  the  admirable  de- 
signs and  beginning  of  con- 
struction  made   under   ^Ir. 


o 


o 

o 

0 

0" 
0 

o 


1  pUdUv 


'ID 
■;s. 


THH   STORY   OP    I' UK    MOUNTAIN 


87 


Frank    ( '.     Ki'lscy. 

foriiuT    cliii-r    en- 
gineer. 

The    rocks    of 

whicli    ill!'     MiMiii- 

tain    is     eoinposcMl 

are    mainly     atidf- 

sitcs     "f     ilitTcft'iit 

classes  and   liasalt. 

But  tlic  |)caK-  rcsls 

upon  a  |ila1  turin  of 

granite,  into  whicli 

the    glncici-s    have 

cut   in   their   prog- 
ress. Several  ol'  the 

canyons   disclose 

tine     outei'oppini;s 

of    the    oldi'i'    anil 

hard(M*  l-oek.  These 

a  re      es  p  e  e  i  a  1 1  y 

clear  on  1  he  side  (d' 

the  Nisipially.  jnst 

helow    the    present 

eiul   (){'  its   Lilaeier. 

as   well    as   on    the 

Carbon  and  in  .Mo- 
raine  Park.   whi(di 

was  until  i'ecentl_\- 

the  lied   of  a   glacier.     This  accounts  for  the  fact  that    the   river  beds  are   full 

of  trranit<'  bowld- 
ers, wh  i  ch  a  re 
lirindini;  the  s(^ft- 
rv  \dlcanic  shin- 
uile  into  soil.  Thus 
the  glaciers  are 
not  only  fast  de- 
forming the  peak. 
They  are  "sow- 
ing the  seeds  of 
continents  to 
r3'R5=f-«  be 


Admiral  Peter  Rainier,  of  the  Hritish  Navy,  in  whose  honor  Captain  Georfte  \'ancou\er, 
in  1792,  named  the  great  peak"Mt.  Rainier." 


Echo  Rock,  on  w  est  hranch  ot  Carhon  Glacier. 


-=  ^ 


•zl   — 

-  C. 

-  c 


-C    ; 


u      3 
3     a: 


r'c.pyrislit.   1909.   by   Asahel   r-urtis 
View  looking  across  Moraine  Park  and  Carbon  Glacier  to  Mother  Mountains. 


IV. 

THE   FLORA   OF   THE   :\rOUNTAIX   SLOPES 

By  PROF.   J.   B.   FLETT   * 

Of  all  the  fire-mountains  which,  like  beacons,  once  blazed  along  the  Pacific  Coast, 
Mount  Rainier  is  the  noblest  in  form.  Its  massive  white  dome  rises  out  of  its  forests, 
like  a  world  by  itself.  Above  the  forests  there  is  a  zone  of  the  loveliest  flowers,  fifty 
miles  in  circuit  and  nearly  two  miles  wide,  so  closely  planted  and  luxuriant  that  it  seems 
as  if  Nature,  glad  to  make  an  open  space  between  woods  so  dense  and  ice  so  deep, 
were  economizing  the  precious  ground,  and  trying  to  see  how  many  of  her  darlings 
she  can  get  together  in  one  mountain  wreath  —  daisies,  anemones,  columbines, 
erythroniums,  larkspurs,  etc.,  among  which  we  wade  knee-deep  and  waist-deep,  the 
bright  corollas  in  myriads  touching  petal  to  petal.  Altogether  this  is  the  richest 
subalpine  garden  I  ever  found,  a  perfect  floral  elysium. — John  Muir:  "Our  National 
Parks." 


NO  ONE  can  visit  the  Mountain  with- 
out being  impressed  by  its  wild 
flowers.  These  are  the  more  noticeable 
because  of  their  high  color  —  a  common 
characteristic  of  flowers  in  alpine  regions. 
As  we  visit  the  ^lountain  at  a  season  when 
the  spring  flowers  of  the  lowlands  have  gone 
to  seed,  we  find  there  another  spring  season 
with  flowers  in  still  greater  numbei-  jind  more 
varied  in  color. 

The  base  of  the  Mountain  up  to  an  altitude 
of  about  4,000  feet  is  covered  bv  a  somber 


*  Prof.  Flett  knows  the  Mountain  well.  He  has 
spent  many  summers  in  its  "parks,"  has  climbed  to 
its  summit  four  times,  has  visited  all  its  glaciers,  and 
iias  made  a  remarkable  collection  of  its  flowers.  In 
addition  to  the  chapter  on  the  botany  of  the  Natural 
Park,  this  book  is  indebted  to  him  for  several  of  its 
most  valuable  illustrations. 


Anemones 


■1I1I-;    FI.OliA    OF    I  UK    AlOl  X'lAI.X    SLOl'KS 


91 


fort' si  of  ovcr- 
yret'lls  coiiiixiscd  (il 
the  wliitc  ;iii(l  lihirk 
pi  11 1'  s  ;  I )  ti  II  l:  1 .1  s. 
lovely  jiihI  imlilt' 
fi  r  s  ;  t  h  0  w  li  i  t  (' 
cedar:    s|)!-iicf.    jiml 

llclllliM'k.  'riiiTr  .iri' 
fouml      .ilsu     sc\rl-;il 

clefiiliuMis  t  n- (' s  — ■ 
larii'c-lcjil't'd  innpli'. 
whiti'  ;ild('r.  coltoii- 
\V()<m|.  i|I|;i  kitiL;'  ;is- 
p  e  11.  \  i  11  !■  ;i  11  d 
S  m  (>  o  1  li  1  ('  ;i  !'(■(  I 
maplt's.    iind    S('\rr;il 

species  ol'  willows. 
Thus  the  silva  ol' 
the  Idwci'  slopes  is 
highly  varied.  Tlie 
forest  is  often  inler- 
r  u  p  t  e  d  h  y  t  h  e 
glacial  canyons, aiul. 
at  intervals,  by  fire- 
swept  areas. 

The  alpine  mea- 
dows beuiii  111  ap- 
pear at  an  altitude 
of  about  5.000  feet. 

The  real  alpine  trees,  with  their  ti'ini.  straiLihl  Iruiiks  and  drnn].iii'j  branches, 
are  in  strange  contrast  to  their  relatives  ol'  the  lower  altitude.  Tin'  |>riiicipal 
trees  of  the  meadow  area  are  the  alpine  i\v.  the  alpine  hemlock,  and  the  Alaska 
cedar.  These  constitute  the  greater  jjarl  id'  the  silva  of  Paradise  Valley.  There 
are  a  few  trees  of  the  lovely  fir  in  the  lower  part  of  the  valley,  and  a  few  white- 
barked  pines  overlooking  the  glaciers  ai   tiinber  line. 

The  trees  of  the  park  zone  ditfer  greatly  on  ditTerent  slopes.  On  the 
northeast  and  east,  the  while-barked  |)ine  and  the  alpine  spruce  form  no 
small  part  of  the  tree  groups.  The  white-barked  ])ine  branches  out  like  the 
scrub  oak  on  the  prairie.  It  is  never  seen  at  a  low  altitude.  The  alpine  spruce 
bears  numerous  cones  all  over  the  tree,  and  has  sharp  leaves.  thouLdi  not  so 
sharp  as  its  relative,  the  tideland  spruce. 

Not  only  is  there  a  difference  in  the  trees  on  the  different  slopes  of  the 
Mountain,  but  there  is  a  marked  difference  in  the  herbaceous  plants  as  well. 
Hesperogenia  StrictLondi  is  a  small,  yellow  plant  of  the  celery  family.  This 
is  very  abundant,   both   in   Spray  Park   and   also   in   the  country  east  of  the 


A  H-foot  Fir,  near  Miiii-ral  Lake 


Sunrise  in  Indian  Henry's  Park,  with  view  of  the  Southwest  Slope  and  Peak  Success,  showing  Purple  Asters,  with  bunches 

o{  Hellebore  in  center  ot  Flower  Field 


Till']    Pl.OitA   <)I'  'I'lll':    MOIXTAIX    SI.OPKS 


93 


('.iriiDii  (;l;iricr.  lull  r,ii-c  oii  llir  sKiitli  side. 
(I'ili.i  Xiil  t.illii.  ;i  l.ii-'ji'.  |ilili».\-liki'  |il;iii1.  is 
;i  liiiiK  hint    niilv    ill    llii'    lijili.iii    Ilriifv    r('}4:iuii. 

'I'wn  ,1  llclllulH's.  uljc  lull  I  iTcll  |i,  llircc  willnWS 
;ill(|     iijlr     si'll.-clM     srciii     In     lir     (•(illlillcd     Id     lilt' 

Wliilr     lii\ii-    i-iiiinlr\        'ihi-     moss    cjiiniiKiii 

ll;iS    hern     rnliml    uIl  \\     nil     MiiW  icll. 
^  The    liinst    Mill  iccililr    ;iii(l    ,1 1  »i  I II 1 1  ;i  1 1 1     iNtWcr 

^J  on  ;ill  slo|)('s  is  lilt'  avaliiiiclie  lily  ( Erytlii-oii- 
iiiiii  iiioiitMiiuin  ).  This  plant  conu's  up  tlwiniirli 
sc\ri;i|  iiifhi's  ol'  tilt'  old  siit)\v  t-nist.  ainl 
roiiiis  hciiit  i  fill  hi'tls  t>|"  purt'  wliitf  flowtTs. 
Im  llir  rxchisioii  of  iicaflx  all  oilier  plants. 
Tlici'c  an-  ot'li'ti  IVoiii  .seven  to  nine  hlossoius 
on  a  stt'tii.  This  has  othei"  popular  names, 
such  as  deertoneiie  ami  ailderloiiuiie.  Tliei'e 
is  also  a  yellow  species,  j^rowin^f  with  the 
(ither.  Imi!  less  ahiindant.  Tt  seldom  has  more 
than  one  or  two  llowefs  on  a  stem.  The  yellow 
alpine  Initterc-ui)  uciuTally  iirows  with  the  erylhroniums.     ll   al.su  tries  to  rush 


An  eminent  scientist  practices  the  simple  life 
near  the    I  imher  Line 


Floral  Carpet  in  Indian  Henry's  Park,  where  "Mountain  Heliotrope,"  more  properly  Valerian,  and  other 

flowers  abound  near  the  snow  line 


94 


THE  MOUNTAIN  THAT  WAS  "GOD' 


the  season  by  coming  np  through 
the  snow.  The  western  anemone 
is  a  little  more  deliberate,  but  is 
found  quite  near  the  snow.  It  may 
be  known  by  its  lavendcM-.  or  purple 
flowers;  and  later  l)y  its  large 
plume-like  heads,  which  are  no 
less  admired  than  the  flowers  them- 
selves. 

The  plants  just  mentioned  are 
the  harbingers  of  spring.  Follow- 
ing them  in  rapid  succession  are 
many  plants  of  various  hues.  The 
mountain  dock,  mountain  dande- 
lion, and  potentilla  seldom  fail  to 


Alpine  Hemlock  and    Mountain  Lilies.     In 
struggle  for  existence  at  the  Timber   Line 
Flowers  prosper,  but  Trees  fight  for 
life  against   storm   and   snow. 


the 


Mountain  Asters. 

appear  later.  The  asters,  often  wrongly 
called  daisies,  are  represented  by  several  spe- 
cies, some  of  which  blossom  early,  and  are 
at  their  best  along  with  the  spring  flowers. 
The  great  majority  of  the  composite  family 
bloom  later,  and  thus  prolong  the  gorgeous 
array.  The  lupines  add  much  to  the  beauty 
of  this  meadow  region,  both  at  a  low  altitude, 
and  also  in  the  region  above  timber  line. 
Their  bright  purple  flowers,  in  long  racemes, 
with  palmate  leaves,  are  very  conspicuous  on 
the  grassy  slopes.  Between  timber  line  and 
8,500  feet,  Lyall's  lupine  grows  in  dense  silk 
mats,  with  dark  purple  flowers  —  the  most 
beautiful  plant  in  that  zone. 

Four  different  kinds  of  heather  are  found 
on  the  Mountain.  The  red  heather  is  the 
largest  and  the  most  abundant.  It  grows  at 
a  lower  altitude  than  the  others,  and  is  some- 
times,   erroneously,    called    Scotch    heather. 


Looking  down    from   ''tHrniigan  RiJijc   into   the   Canyon  of   the   Noitli  Mo«  icl)  Glacier  and   up   to   the   rioud-wreathed   Peak 


•-1 1  1  /'■   t 


Till-:    FLORA    OK   'IIII-:    MOINIAIX    SI.Ol'KS 


Stiid\  intt  llic  I'hiox. 


Tliri'c   jiiv  two   kinds  of  while   hcMllicr. 
Hora.   ol'lt'ii    urowiiiL;   with   tlic   red.      The 

nboul     tilllbrf    line.       The    yellow    lle;illler 

is  lai'^tT  and  moi'c  coiiiinoii  lliaii  the 
otliers.  It  ol'teii  forms  lieautirul  areas 
where  other  vegetation  is  I'are.  The 
wliite  rhodo(h'ndroii  is  a  heautil'nl  shrnli 
of  the  htwei'  meadows.  Its  creamy  white 
hh^ssoms  remind  one  of  tlie  cultivated 
azalea.  There  are  sevei-al  hutdvleberries, 
some  Avith  large  bushes  growing  in  the 
lower  forest  area,  otliers  small  and 
adapted  to  the  grassy  meadows. 

The  figwort  family  has  many  and  i-uii 
ous  representatives.  The  rose  -  purple 
monkey-flower  is  very  eomiiion  .md  eon- 
spicuoiis  in  the  lower  meadows,  along  the 
streams.  It  is  nearly  always  accompa))- 
ied  ])y  the  yellow  fireweed.  Higher  up, 
large  meadow  areas  are  arrayed  in  bi-ight 
yellow  by  the  alpine  monkey-flower. 
Above  timlier  line,  two  pentstemons.  with 
matted  leaves  and  short  stems  willi  bril- 
liant purple  and  red  flowers,  cover  large 


One  forms  a  prominent   part  (d'  the 

othei'   is  less   eonspienous  a)id    ijrows 
also  grcjws  at   the  same   ;dlituile.   and 


Squaw  Grass,  or  Mountain  Lily 

(Xerophyllum  tcnax) 


Mosses  and  Ferns,  in  the  Forest  Keser\e,  on  way  to  l.ongmire  Springs. 


Till';  Fi.()i{.\  OK  riih:  .moixiaix  slopes 


91* 


I'lii-ky  |i;i1clics.  mixed  here 
.•MhI  I  llrlT  wiili  laXfllllcr  linls 
I  if  1  hr  ;il|)iii('  ])lllnx  :  AVllilc  the 
.•iinlii'i-  r;iys  of  llic  uinldi-n 
.istiT.  sc.it  tfi-i'(|  llir()U<rh  these 
\;ii-ic'j;ilci|  ImmIs.  Inid  tlicir 
i-li.ii'iii  Id  llic  rii(d<y  fid'jrs. 
Till'  liidi;iii  |i;iiiit  lii-lisli.  ill.- 
speed  We  I  I.  the  eleiilljllll  's 
tniidc.  ;iiid  the  j)i<fe(»ii  l)ills 
Jil'e  all  Welldciiowil  liieillhers 
of  Ili(i  lai'irc  fiLMVoi-t  i'amily 
Axliicli  d(ies  iiiiirh  to  cinbcl- 
lisli  the  .Moiiiiiaiii  Inea(lo^vs. 
The  xaleriaii.  oricii  wi'miiily 
<■  .1  1 1  !■  d  '  ■  iiiiiiiiitaiii  helio- 
liiipe."  is  very  common  nn 
the    i:rassy    slopes.     Its   odoi- 

can  often  I)e  deterled  befoi-e 
if  is  seen.  The  I'usy  spii'aea. 
the  iiioiiiitaiii  ash.  and  the 
wild  eiirrant.  ai-e  three  eom- 
1111)11  shi-iihs  ill  this  area. 
T  h  e  re  are  alsii  iiiiiiieriHis 
small  liei-haceinis  i)lants  of 
the  saxifrage  family,  some 
f(n"ming  dense  mats  to  tlu^  exclusion  of  other  plants.  The  mertensias.  pole- 
luoiiiums.  and  sliootin^'  stars  add  nnich  to  the  purple  ami  blue  colorin<z'. 

Two  liliaceous  plants  of  low  altitude  are  always  objcN-ts  of  marked  intei'est. 
Tile  ('liiiloiiia.  popularly  called  al[uiie  Iteauly.  begins  in  the  forest  area,  and 
continues  up  to  the  lowei-  meadows.  This  may  be  known  by  its  pure  white 
blossoms  and  blue  herries.  Its  lea\-es  are  oIiIoiil;  in  tufts  of  fi-om  two  to  four. 
They  spi-iiru'  up  iieai-  the  roots.  The  other  is  xerophylliim.  mountain  lily,  some- 
times calle(l  sipiaw  u'rass.  because  it  is  used  by  the  Indians  in  basket  making. 
This  lias  tall  stems  with  small   fraiirant   thiwers  and  coarse  grass-like  leaves. 

The  writer  has  a  list  of  about  three  hnndreil  and  sixty  species  from  the 
-Mountain.  It  includes  only  llowering  plants  and  ferns.  There  are  uuu'e 
than  twenty  1yi)e  species  named  fi'om  the  .Mountain,  not  a  U'W  of  whi<di 
are  found  nowhei-e  I'lse.  Its  ueoui-aphic.d  ])osition  makes  it  the  boundary 
between  the  arctic  i)lants  fi-om  the  Xorlh  and  the  plants  of  Oregon  and 
California  from  the  South.  Its  great  altitude  has  a  wonderful  effect  on  plant 
life.  A  good  example  of  this  is  seen  upon  the  trees  at  timber  line,  where 
twenty  feet  or  more  of  snow  rests  upon  therii  for  many  lunnths.  Their  prostrate 
trunks  and  gnarled  branches  give  ample  testimony  to  their  extreme  struggle 
for  existence.     The  prevailing  wind  on  the  high  ridges  gives  direction  to  their 


.Avalanche  Lilies  (Erythroiiium  montaiiuiu)  torcintt  iheir  «,iy  throuuli 

the  snow. 


ei':^Qe;o7 


100 


THE  MOUNTAIN   THAT  WAS  "GOD" 


Copyright.    190i:i.   by  Asahel   Curtis 
Moraine  Park,  Sluiskin  MuuiUalns  and  Mystic  Lake. 

trunks  and  l)i'anche.s.  The  latter  hang  from  the  leeward  side,  giving  the  trees 
a  one-sided  ajipearance.  Where  the  ordinary  plants  cease  to  exist  the  snoAvy 
protoeoecus  holds  undisputed  sway  on  the  extensive  snow  fields.  This  is  a 
small  one-celled  microscopic  plant  having  a  blood  red  color  in  one  stage  of 
its  existence.  Tourists  often  wonder  what  animal  has  been  killed  on  the  snow. 
On  some  snow  fields  and  glaciers,  it  is  found  associated  with  a  small  black 
angle-worm.  The  writer  has  wondered  whether  the  plant  furnished  food  to 
this  little  black  wiggier  in  his  inhospitable  home. 

Plant  life,  on  the  JNIountain.  as  is  well  known,  does  not  stop  at  the  snow 
line.  Even  in  the  crater,  on  the  warm  rocks  of  the  rim,  will  be  found  three 
or  four  mosses  —  I  have  noted  one  there  which  is  not  found  anywhere  else  — 
several  lichens,  and  at  least  one  liverwort. 


Canada  Dogwood  (Cornus  canadensis) 


Glacial  Debris  on  lower  part  of  Winthrop  Glacier,  with  Sluiskin  Mountains  beyond. 

V. 

THE   CLIMBERS 

Climb  the  mountains,  and  get  their  good  tidings.  .\ature"s  peace  will  flow  into 
you  as  sunshine  flows  into  trees.  The  winds  will  blow  their  own  freshness  into  you, 
and  the  storms  their  energy,  while  cares  will  drop  off  like  autumn  leaves. — John  ;Muir. 

GTVf]X  u'cKid  muscles  and  wind,  the  other  requisites  for  an  ascent  of  the 
Mountain  are  a  competent  guide  and  grit.     It  offers  few  problems  like 
those   confronting  the   climber   of  the   older   and  more   crag-like   Alps. 
There  are  no  perpendicular  cliff's  to  scale,  no  abysses  to  .swing  across  on  a  rope. 


\'iew   of    Paradise   Valley   from   Pinnacle   Peak,  with  South-side  Route  to  the  Summit.     The  route   starts  at   Reese's 

Camp,  crosses  the  snow-fields  abose  .Nisqually  Glacier,  follows  the  Cowlitz  Cleaver  nearly  to  Gibraltar,  then 

turns  east  to  avoid  cre\asses,  passes  Gibraltar  from  East  to  West,  climbs  the  "Chute"  on  its  West 

side,  and  then  makes  the  straightest  line  the  crevasses  will  permit  for  Crater  Peak. 


Tllh:   CI.I.MHKRS 


103 


II  Veil  c.-lll  sl;ill(|  ihr  I  ilim>llll|r|il  <  1 1'  ;|  Idll'J'. 
slf;i(|\.      Ilp-llill      |i||ll.     i<\rv     tile     ice     :|||(|      loiiSC 

rocks.  \(iu  iii;iy  s.ii'cjy  jdiii  ;i  p.irly  Idr  llic 
Miiiiinil.  I'>iil  (Id  Mill  li-\-  it  willidiit  L'liidcs. 
Till'     r.il.il     I'lnl     df     ( ';ill;p^li;iii     :iii(|     Slc\cils, 

III  l'tl)!l.  slidiild  jdiiL:  scf\i-  ;is  ;i  \\;i  ni  illL'' 
;i'_:;i  iiisl  Inisliiiu  Id  cxiicrii'iicf  dii  dllicr 
iiidiiiil  ;i  ins.  N'd  such  wilderness  df  crevjisscs 
,ilid  sliil'till'.;  siidW  sldpes  slididd  lie  ;ill;nd<ed 
s;i\-e  ill  cdin|i;iny  with  thdse  who  know  its 
lr;iils. 

ir  diic  is  udinu  llie  |Mijiid;ir  fdiite,  ;ind  is 
e((ii;il  td  sd  ldii'_;  ;ind  iinlirdkeii  ;i  idiiiili.  In- 
iii;iy  sl;ir1  I'l'diii  ('.•iiiip  df  the  ( 'jdiids  ;it  d;iw"n. 
;iiid  re;ich  the  id|i  hel'dre  ijddn.  l>iit  |i;irties 
iVeilUellt  l>  Lid  ll|i  ('dwlitz  ('|e;iver  in  the 
('\'eniiiL;.  ;inil  spend  the  iiiuht  ;it  (';iiiip  .Miiir. 
;i  ledei'  heldW"  (  I i I )r;i 1 1 ;ir.  ininied  t'l-din  the 
fjinidiis  iiidiin1;iin  cliiidtef.  .Idhn  .Mnir.  ;ind 
drfei-iiiL:  tidlie  dl'  llie  ;i  ccdi  n  1 1 1  dd;!  t  i  dll  s  df  ;i 
■■cjiiiip"  s;i\c  ;i    wiiiddi!'e;i  k.      'I'lie   iiii|»di-t;int 

i-,,|,.vni;ln.    I'.ilu.   f.    K.    (ult.r        1  h  i  11  l:'     js     lo     pJISS    (  J  i  1 1  fJI  1 1  JIT     iMl'lv.     Ilid'dfe     the 

i  he  Oldest  and  the  Youngest  of  the  Climbers,  j        >         ^i  i       i  i  i-     ■     •     i  i 

Gen.  Hazard    Stevens    and    Jesse    McRae.      '    ^'l"     ^till'ls     the     dailv     shdWer     n\      Iclck'S     illld 

General  Stevens,  with  P.  B.  Van  Trump,  in  rd(d<S     I'l'dlll     tile     elilT    dNCr    tile    tl'Jiil.        'I'llis     is 

1870,  made  the  tirst  ascent   ot   the    Mountain. 

In  \W^.  he  came  west  from  his  home    in    Bos-  MM'         111  d  S  1 

ton  and  ioined  the   Ma/.amas   in   their  climh.  (  I  I'l  1 1  < 'C  |' ( )ns 

I  he    picture    shows    him    before    his    tent    in 

Paradise  Park.      Me  was  then  6.^  years  old.  pnlllt.        I  Hit 

no  lives 
have  cvei'  hecii  lost  here.  I^'ery  where,  of 
course,  caiitidii  is  needed.  ( )\-ercd!ilideiice 
may  prove  as  costl\  as  it  did  to  I'rof.  i^dizar 
Mc'Clure.  of  tile  I 'iii\  crsity  of  ()reL;(»ii.  who. 
in  1S!)7.  was  killed  while  desci'iidiiiL;'  I'roiii 
(  'amp  Miiir  after  dark. 

The  cast  -  side  route  in\dl\cs  less  daiiecr. 
perhaps,  hut  is  a  loiiuci'  climli  ovei-  the  ice. 
It  has  been  less  used  because  it  is  farther  Iimuii 
Paradise  \'alley.  Startinji"  from  a  iiii;lit"s  eii- 
canipment  on  the  Wed^e.  jiarties  usually  vf- 
'piire  lialf  a  day  to  reacdi  the  summit. 

The  (Til)raltar  route  has  been  the  popular 
one  ev(M-  since  ( leii.  Hazard  Ste\-ens  and   P.  1*>. 

Van  Truiii]).  on  duly   17.  KS7U.  used   it    in  the  ■ite.j* 

tirst  successful  ascent  of  the  Mountain.     Kach         ,   .   ,.     .^  ,       .,  ^      c 

.  1  •  1  ''    '*-^a"   Trump,  who.  \Mth  Gen.  Stevens, 

01   these    piOlieel'S    on    the    summit    has    ])Ubllshed  made  the  first  ascent  in   1S70. 


rill. to   by    I^ea   Bronson  < 'nin  ripht.    irt09,    by   P.    V.    Caesar 

Axalanch-.-  falling  on  \\'il!is  Wall,  at  head  of  the  (Srcat  Aniphithfater  of  Carbon  Glacier.     The  Cliff  here,  up  to  the  Snow  Cap 

\  isible  on  the  Summit,  is  more  than  4,000  feet  high  and  nearly  perpendicular.     Avalanches  fall  every  day, 

but  this  picture  of  a  big  one  in  action  is  probably  unique  in   Mountain   Photography. 


106 


THE   .MOrXTAIX  THAT  WAS  ■'GOD" 


I-*' 

1 

.  / 

-<1 

V 

^ 

^^^^           .^ft^^^^^^i 

^-^ 

.^^ 

^^^^H 

1  ^ 

ittk 

|F^ 

^^^1 

East  Side  of  the  Mountain,  from  the  Wedge,  showing  Route  to  the  Summit  over  the  great  White  Glacier. 

This  is  the  easiest  and  safest  of  all  the  routes. 

;i  noteworthy  account  of  how  they 
uot  there.  General  Stevens  in  the 
Atlantic  ^Monthly  for  November, 
1876,  and  Mr.  Van  Trump  in  the 
second  volume  of  ^lazama.  A 
month  after  their  ascent,  they  were 
followed  over  the  same  route  by 
Messrs.  Emmons  and  Wilson  of 
the  Geological  Survey. 

Thirteen  years  before,  in  1857, 
Lieutenant  (later  General)  A.  V. 
Kautz,  with  several  companions, 
liad  made  the  first  attempt  to  scale 
the  peak  of  which  we  have  any 
record.  He  climbed  up  the  arete, 
or  spine,  between  the  glacier  now 
named  for  him  and  the  Niscjually 
glacier,  but  turned  back  on  the 
approach  of  night,  when  probably 
within  a  thousand  feet  of  the  sum- 
mit.   Ilis  route  has  since  been  fol- 

Lateral  Moraine  of  Carbon  Glacier.     Mountaineers  building  l«>^Ved     SUCCCSsfully     to     thc     tOp    by 

Trail.     Many  such  Trails  have  been  built,  and  more  SCVCral    particS,   tllC   first,   IbelicVC, 
are  under  construction.     Without   them   the  .  <>       a  i  n\^  ^ 

"Tenderfoot"  would  fare  badly  indeed.  U^\\\g       that       of       McSSrS.       GlaSCOCk 


THK  CIJ.MI'.KRS 


107 


MiHiMliiiiifi'is'  (>amp.  MoiaiiiL-  l'a:k.  ()\  ci  li)i)kiiiR  huad  uf  (Jarhmi  Glacier. 


;lll(|    Dudley    (if    lllr    SirlT.I    Cllll).    nf   S;ill    l-'l'.l  llciscd.    in     IIM).').       'I'll,.    WllitC    fjlaciei* 

roiiti'  \v;is  licst  used  in  1  ss.").     In  ]S!ll   Mr.  \';iii  Ti'uiiip  i'c;iclic(l  the  Niiiiiiiiit  over 
llic     rid^'c     dixidiiiLi'     ihc     'I'  ;i  li  n  in  ii 
>i'I<i('icrs.      The    lifst    woninn    tn    in;d<i'        tT^ 
the  ascent    w;i.s   Miss   F;iy    i-'niliM-.   n\'     f^  JP  \ 
Tnponin.  in  1S!1(I.  '      " 

The  norlli  ;ind  iioi'l  liwcst  sides.  ;is 
1  li;i  \c  s;iid.  ;ii'e  ;is  \  i'\  nnei  in(|  nefi'd. 
Soilie    niendiefs    (if    the    M  on  I1 1  ;i  i  1  leel's  " 

Cluli  inive  ,1  tlieorv  tli;i1  the  sniiiiiiil 
oaii  ))»'  re;ielied  rroiii  A  \;il;inclie 
Caiii|)  l)y  (diinliiiiL;  ;il(>iii;'  llie  I'nce  id' 
llie  (dilV  kiiiiwii  ;is  lJiiss(dl  IN'iik.  and 
so  ai'iMind  1(1  tile  iippci-  siidw  held  id' 
"Wild  llTdp  Lllaeiel".  They  lia\'e  seen 
iiKUint aiii  Lioats  iiwik'iiiL;'  the  triji.  and 
propose  to  1  I'y   it    t  hellisehcs.   Whether 

they  siu-ceed  or  not.  liiis  trail  will 
never  be  popnhir.  owiiii^  to  the  laiid- 
.slides   caused    l»y    the    dnily    elili    ;iiid 

tJoW"     of      frost      in      the     loose      roidc     of 

which  the  cJilT  is  Iniill . 

Til  recount  iiiL:  the  famous  ascents 
of  the  .Moiiiiljiiti.  ;i  word  is  due  to 
the  work  of  three  well-known  (diihs 
of  jilpinists.  the  M;i/;inias.  (d'  I'ort- 
laiid  :  the  Sierra  Clul).  of  (';diforiii;i. 
and  tin-  Mountaineers,  a  later  organi- 
zation, havino-  its  head(|uarters  in 
Seattle  ,-111(1   I'rol'.   |-:.  S.  Meniiy  of  the 

University     id'     Washington    as     its    en-  Serracs.  or  Icc  I'lnnadcs.  Carb.,,.  Glacier. 


c 


c  -^ 


c  3: 

^  1 

.  a. 

^^  < 


K    ^ 


■5 


■3    ^ 

C     = 
a    _ 


c 

z 


o 
o 


110 


THE   MOUXTAIX   THAT  WAS  "GOD" 


thusiastie  president.  The  ^Nlazamas 
have  made  two  ascents,  with  lar^c 
parties,  and  each  of  the  other  clubs 
has  made  one.  Many  members  of 
the  Appalachian  Club  and  of  Euro- 
pean organizations  of  similar  pur- 
pose have  climbed  to  Crater  Peak, 
either  in  company  with  the  West- 
ern clubs  named,  or  in  smaller 
parties. 

All  of  these  clubs  have  done 
much  to  make  the  ^Mountain  better 
known.  Each  of  the  Coast  socie- 
ties publishes  a  periodical.  The 
numbers  of  these  publications  de- 
scribing the  ascents  by  the  clubs 
are  of  scientific  value  as  well  as 
popular  interest. 

An  excellent,  though  incomplete, 
bibliography,  prepared  by  Miss 
Mary  Banks,  may  be  found  in  the 
Mountaineer  for  November,  1909. 
It  covers  the  important  scientific 
publications  on  the  Mountain  thor- 
oughly, and  cites  a  large  number 
of  magazine  articles.  The  list  of 
publications  hitherto  wholly  de- 
voted to  the  subject  is  a  very  brief 
one.  the  chief  titles,  outside  of 
books  of  pictures  alone,  being 
James  Wickersham's  pamphlet  on 
the  name  ("Is  it  'Mt.  Tacoma'  or 
'Kainier,'  "  Tacoma.  1893),  Oliii 
D.  Wheeler's  "Climbing  Mt. 
Kainier."  St.  Paul.  1901.  and  Fred 
G.  Plummer's  "Illustrated  Guide 
Book  to  Mt.  Tacoma,"  Tacoma,  no 
date. 

I  close  this  brief  essay  with  ex- 
pert testimony.  In  1883,  Prof.  Zit- 
tel.  the  German  scientist,  and  Prof. 
James  Bryce,  long  president  of  the 
British  Alpine  Club,  author  of 
"The  American  Commonwealth," 
and  now  British  ambassr.dor  to  the 
United  States,  explored  our  great 


Copyright,   1909,   by  Asahel   Curtis 
Spray  Falls,  a  splendid  scenic  feature  of  the  North  Side,  where 
it  drops  more  than  five  hundred  feet   from  the  Spray   Park 
table-land  intci  the  Canyon  of  North  Mowich  Glacier. 


THK   ("UMHRRS 


111 


'  ■M'yiiKht.    UilO,    liy   «'.    E.    Culler 

Till.-  MiMiiitalii.  as  seen  from  a  hi«h  ridttc  in  the  (cascades  near  Green  River  Mol  Springs, 
sliovvinK  the  North  and  Hast  faces  of  the  Peak. 

I)i';il<.      Lntrf.   tlii'sc   l';iimiiis  inoiiiil niii   climlx'i's  uiiiird    in    piihlisliiiiL;'  ;i    iinic  tm 
tlit'ir  iiiiprt'ssions.     Tlicy  .saitl.  in  part: 

The  scenery  is  of  rare  and  varied  beauty.  Tlie  peak  itself  is  as  noble  a  mountain 
as  we  have  ever  seen,  in  its  lines  and  structure.  The  glaciers  which  descend  from  its 
snow  fields  present  all  the  characteristic  features  of  those  in  the  Ali)s.  and  thou.^li  less 
extensive  than  the  ice  streams  of  the  Mount  Blanc  or  Monla  Rosa  groui)s,  are  in  their 
crevasses  and  serracs  equally  striking  and  equally  worthy  of  close  study. 

We  have  nothing  more  beautiful  in  Switzerland  or  Tyrol,  in  Norway  or  in  the 
Pyrenees,  than  the  Carbon  river  glaciers  and  the  great  Puyallup  glaciers.  Indeed,  the 
ice  in  the  latter  is  unusually  pur(>.  and  the  crevasses  are  unusually  fine.  The  com- 
bination of  ice  scenery  with  woodland  scenery  of  the  grandest  type  is  to  be  found 
nowhere  in  the  Old  World,  unless  it  be  in  the  Himalayas,  and,  so  far  as  we  know, 
nowliere  else  on  the  American  continent. 


Returning  from  the  Summit.      I  he  Mountaineers  ending  a  memorable  outing  in  1905.     W  inthrop  Glacier 

in  foreground.  Sluiskin  Mountains  in  distance. 


\J    e*r    fi"'  :si  r\    -V 


f?^^^ 


MAP  OF 

PUGET   SOUND   COUNTRY 

AND  ROADSTO 

MT  RAINIER  -  TACOMA 


-      r>.    ,  ,'    "'.{:::  N  AT  IqWa  i.     I,.  pA  b  »<^ 


livN^^; 


^'Ill>.  .0)1  II., 


tte  ^rMfteoY    <"•        •^S'frra.^ 


-. ,    ^astle 


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■■j'')lj'''>' 


■^<>t>< 


:^55^<> 


-.^1 


Map  of  RAINIER  NATIONAL  PARK 


Compiled  by  EUGENE  RICKSECKER, 
U.  S.  Assistant  Engineer 


-  47'00 


•3  50 


SCALE    OF     Ml  LE.3 


ffOADS 


«7o 


£  NEW  "YORK 


46 


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